Yeah, I struggled with those until that saw. The kerf is nice and thin. That combined with the pull action it allows for greater control. Once you get your horizontal and vertical cut started to the lines it just stays on target. I think you’ll like using one. If you don’t have any get yourself some jap wood files. You’ll really like those! There’s two I use a lot. They’re 1/8” & 1/4” round. The cutting edges are spiral’d up the file like threads of a screw. Depending on how you apply pressure and angle to the grain you can remove wood fast with the courser 1/4”. I finish up with the finer cutting 1/8” file. It’ll leave an amazingly smooth surface behind. Like no sanding needed smooth in many cases. They draw file really well too. Search iwasaki files at woodcraft.com Pricey, but worth every penny! They carry good jap pull saws too. I’ve cut hundreds of slabs for my hand forged blades with that saw and then shaped them with those two files. I have a 6x72 grinder, but I rarely use it unless a production run on something, preferring to hand shape things. As you know, there’s just something soothing to the soul in doing handwork. I think I mentioned to you before about Viking boat wax finishes. Especially nice on white oak and maples. No offense, but I hate poly finishes. Too time consuming and a pain in the ass. The boat wax just looks more natural to me and feels natural to the hand too. Requires less sanding. Rarely do I go over 120 grit. You can get a nice satin sheen out of it when buffed. One part beeswax, one part pine tar and one part unboiled linseed oil. Old school cool. Search Viking pine tar wax at solventfreepaints.com if you ever want to give it a try. I guarantee you’ll like it. Smells good and so easy to work with. Always enjoy see’n your works! These silhouettes are cool. Hope you give my tool suggestions a shot. They were a game changer for me and made it all so much more enjoyable to work with and I think the results you get from them inspire you to do more.