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I have some clear S4S maple on order that I'm going to use to build shelves above my wet bar. I'm not a great carpenter, so this may take a few tries to get what I want. Any test pieces that dont meet my standards will be relegated to my basement...it could use some more shelving.

Check my plan for sanding and staining.

I have a vague recollection that S4S is usually planed to around 120 grit, so I think I should sand it with 180 grit, stain it, sand it with 220 grit, then stain it again, then put a coat of poly on it.

Is that correct?

I have some clear S4S maple on order that I'm going to use to build shelves above my wet bar. I'm not a great carpenter, so this may take a few tries to get what I want. Any test pieces that dont meet my standards will be relegated to my basement...it could use some more shelving. Check my plan for sanding and staining. I have a vague recollection that S4S is usually planed to around 120 grit, so I think I should sand it with 180 grit, stain it, sand it with 220 grit, then stain it again, then put a coat of poly on it. Is that correct?

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[–] • 1 pt

I'm assuming 120 grit after S4S. If not, I have 120 and 150 grit in spades I can go over it with. The stain and poly are separate, so it'll be wiping stain, drying, then applying poly.

Do I need to sand between coats of clear poly?

[–] • 1 pt

Do I need to sand between coats of clear poly?

No, unless you have imperfections in the prior coat of poly that you want to remove... dust, brushmarks, etc. Check your product directions, it should adhere fine without sanding the prior coat.

[–] • 2 pts

I ussually rub down with 4/0 steel wool between coats. Be careful with wiping stain to not get lap marks.

[–] • 1 pt

Also, if your stain is too dark and you can't wipe off any more to lighten it, you can cheat and use a little paint thinner on a rag to wipe off more stain, or lighten dark spots.