For sure at least 3 coats of poly, sanding between coats. I'm a big fan of water base satin poly. Use the best brush you can find and always stir, don't shake.
Do you know for sure your wood was sanded to 120 grit after S4S planing? Maple is pretty hard, you might want to hit it with 120, then 180 only if you can see scratches from the 120.
Is your stain an oil stain brush-on-wipe-off type or a stain/poly mix type? If stain and wipe, then stain, let set a few minutes and wipe, repeat as many times as necessary to get the color depth you want. Poly 2 coats.
If stain/poly mix, I don't think the poly stains offer as much color latitude. Try it on some scrap to see what you're going to get after 1, 2 and 3 coats. Pick the best. Clear poly can go over the final coat.
When applying poly, brushing in one direction helps to avoid creating bubbles.
Beware of instantaneous combustion of the stain and solvent rags.
Good luck!
I'm assuming 120 grit after S4S. If not, I have 120 and 150 grit in spades I can go over it with. The stain and poly are separate, so it'll be wiping stain, drying, then applying poly.
Do I need to sand between coats of clear poly?
Do I need to sand between coats of clear poly?
No, unless you have imperfections in the prior coat of poly that you want to remove... dust, brushmarks, etc. Check your product directions, it should adhere fine without sanding the prior coat.
I ussually rub down with 4/0 steel wool between coats. Be careful with wiping stain to not get lap marks.
Maple is hard to evenly stain i prep it with a spray bottle of 50/50 acetone and water after sanding to 180 and let dry completely before staining
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