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This thread is about CRT's (cathode ray tubes), and is for those of us sick and tired of hearing about that other CRT

I'll start out with a listing of some topics about the dangers of fucking with CRT's: - High-voltage/low-current CRT anode (the obvious one) - Medium-voltage/high-current B+ voltage - Live chassis - Tube implosion - Hernias (from lifting the damn things)

Edit: I am not an expert on CRT's, but know enough to be dangerous.

This thread is about CRT's (cathode ray tubes), and is for those of us sick and tired of hearing about that *other CRT* I'll start out with a listing of some topics about the dangers of fucking with CRT's: - High-voltage/low-current CRT anode (the obvious one) - Medium-voltage/high-current B+ voltage - Live chassis - Tube implosion - Hernias (from lifting the damn things) Edit: I am not an expert on CRT's, but know enough to be dangerous.

(post is archived)

[+] [deleted] • 2 pts
[–] • 1 pt

I have an old 39 in CRT TV in my garage. It works. I dont need it, I just dont want to move it.

Also crt tvs are fun to shoot.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

Probably takes up much valuable garage volume.. Know how you feel about moving it. Helped my parents get rid of one massive TV set, took two of us to lug that sucker.

[–] • 1 pt

The paint on the back of a CRT is called aquadag. It’s a conductive paint that, with the metal strapping and springs around the bottom of the tube, forms a capacitor that helps filter the high voltage on the anode. If this paint is severely damaged or the ground strapping is missing/damaged, you will have a noisy picture.

[–] • 1 pt

The europium to make the red phosphor in a color TV set mostly comes from the Mountain Pass mine in California. Without that deposit of rare earths, the color television era would have never happened.

[–] • 1 pt

the copper in the back of those things is worth about $5 around here, unless it's that crappy copper coated wiring

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

Properly modified, a good CRT is worth a whole lot more to folks looking for a RGB modded CRT.

[–] • 1 pt

Sparse market, and it would need to be a decent brand and model in good condition. They keep throwing out these huge bigbox superstore CRTs around here. There's 2 sitting right next to the garbage by my apartment right now because that's what the niggers straight out of prison that the landlord keeps renting to find for free.

[–] • 1 pt

To discharge a CRT you will need two long metal shaft screwdrivers.

Look at the back of the CRT, you’ll see something that looks like a suction cup. Slip one of the screwdrivers under that cap, it will hit the metal prongs in the cap. Use the other screwdriver to touch a piece of metal somewhere in the set, then touch the two shafts together. You’ll get a quick arc if the tube was charged. Rub the drivers together and under the cap/on the metal to make sure you have a good connection.

Once discharged, you can gently pop the cap off the tube. Generally, any metal chunk it touches will discharge and keep it from accumulating a static charge. Be gentle, the risk of implosion is negligible around the cap area, but can still happen.

Don’t do this if you’re unsure of anything.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

That's how I started doing it before I got myself a big ol' long high voltage probe. Has a neat little electrode attachment that slides under the cup. Makes awesome noises when actually measuring the anode.

[–] • 1 pt

Yeah, the proper tool is always better. I never had the need for a HV probe - only did TV repair when I was in high school, after that I entered a different area of electronics.

[–] • 0 pt

Well, CRT is making resolution differences a bit more manageable.