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About two weeks of four hour days. Perfected my approach about half way through so had to redo it. Feels Good Man

Approach currently is -

Tape it. Then put a light coat of 20 minute mud over just the tape. Re-expose just the corners of the tape. When the 20 minute spackle dries, sand it down to just above the tape. Use the exposed tape corners to know how far it is currently off.

Now use a 12” trowel to taper off the tape (or 8” for corners) and 45 minute mud. The dried spackle over the tape will provide a perfect guide for the trowel to make a perfect ultra low profile taper.

After this do a flattening pass with a 12” normal blade in the direction perpendicular. This is an on off pass which serves to flatten in the other x or y direction and provide a smooth covering. Done with normal bucket mud.

After this spot fix streaks and holes with bucket mud and a 4” blade.

After this it should be flat and smooth already. Two even passes with a sanding sponge with the purpose of smoothing not shaping.

About two weeks of four hour days. Perfected my approach about half way through so had to redo it. Feels Good Man Approach currently is - Tape it. Then put a light coat of 20 minute mud over just the tape. Re-expose just the corners of the tape. When the 20 minute spackle dries, sand it down to *just* above the tape. Use the exposed tape corners to know how far it is currently off. Now use a 12” trowel to taper off the tape (or 8” for corners) and 45 minute mud. The dried spackle over the tape will provide a perfect guide for the trowel to make a perfect ultra low profile taper. After this do a flattening pass with a 12” normal blade in the direction perpendicular. This is an on off pass which serves to flatten in the other x or y direction and provide a smooth covering. Done with normal bucket mud. After this spot fix streaks and holes with bucket mud and a 4” blade. After this it should be flat and smooth already. Two even passes with a sanding sponge with the purpose of smoothing not shaping.

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[–] • 0 pt

I noticed last night if the sand paper / sponge goes weak it stops sanding different patches at the same rate leaving raised patches to become even more raised. Made me think a stronger grit would be better as it seems to need to need decent grit to sand everything equally.

Thanks

[–] • 1 pt

Not sure I understand, but you may be over-sanding. Only scrape between coats with a 12" drywall knife, you only need to sand the last coat.

--and NEVER set tape with 20 or 45 mud, it will not bond the tape well. Use the greentop mud or Plus 3. Set up fans everywhere, open the windows, take all water buckets out of the room. Let the fans run all night.

[–] • 1 pt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p3lG_gXMdg

This is exactly what I was talking about. Some patches of mud can be harder to sand than others so when trying to sand them it makes the problem even worse. It seems what you were suggesting actually solves the problem. Use a higher grit sand paper / sponge.

Thanks!

[–] • 1 pt

The greentop mud for first coat is hard to sand, which is why I use the bluetop for the second coat, and the lime-green top 'ultralight' for the final, it sands so easy. Medium grit/100 grit for everything, the primer coat (which should be rolled on) will fill little scratches and pinholes, plus 2 coats of paint = nuff already.

The sponge sanders for corners come in long and short versions...get several, also a few of the angled ones so you can sand the wall without scraping the ceiling (if it's textured, for example). I buy sanding sponges from Amazon, 12-20 at a time. Beware: some sellers have very short versions that look like the normal ones, pay attention to the listed size. A real one is 5-6 inches long.