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613

Pulled out a leaky one from my mouse yesterday. That's the last straw. It wasn't even that old, maybe three to four months and that's in an application where you'd think you would notice a weak battery before it starts to leak. Granted, it was a cheap no-name brand, but that's it for me, I'm done.

Looking back over the years and the number of times more or less expensive gear was damaged by these godawful things, it's cheaper to go for a real leak proof solution. Never had an NiMh leak on me, jury is still out on LiFeS2 but so far, so good.

PSA, just in case you don't know: Eneloop NiMH are pricey but very reliable and low self-discharge. With their 1.2 V cell voltage, they can't be used in devices that need the full 1.5 Volts. It's always worth a try though.

For applications that need 1.5 Volts: There's Energizer Ultimate Lithium LiFeS2 non-rechargeable cells which have about 1.8 V cell voltage and good energy density. These work in everything I threw at them, so far. Pricey but may be worth it for some special stuff.

Then there's these rechargeable Lithiums that have an integrated voltage regulator that puts out exactly 1.5 Volts. They can't be charged in a standard charger and usually come with a little USB charging-chest. They can be bought separately, though. I denuded one of these and shorted it out deliberately, no fire but lots of very stinky smoke from the sulphur, can not recommend. ;)

I put some on my battery tester and they performed ok, 3100 mWh instead of the advertised 3600 but still within the capacity range of alkalines. Found only chinesium brands so far, so quality may vary... Chargin chest example: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XjBVKXH4I0M When I tested these, (discharged with 1 Amp) they put out a flat 1.5 Volts until they were almost discharged, then went down to 1.1 Volts for a little while before going dead. This means they should even trigger a low voltage warning befory dying completely. Video comparing NiMH and EBL regulated 1.5 V Lithiums: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrMNZzRa2Zw

In any case, might be worth looking into for anyone frustrated by leaky batteries and destroyed gear. Anyone need a few new packs of a dozen AA alkaline batteries?

Pulled out a leaky one from my mouse yesterday. That's the last straw. It wasn't even that old, maybe three to four months and that's in an application where you'd think you would notice a weak battery before it starts to leak. Granted, it was a cheap no-name brand, but that's it for me, I'm done. Looking back over the years and the number of times more or less expensive gear was damaged by these godawful things, it's cheaper to go for a real leak proof solution. Never had an NiMh leak on me, jury is still out on LiFeS2 but so far, so good. PSA, just in case you don't know: Eneloop NiMH are pricey but very reliable and low self-discharge. With their 1.2 V cell voltage, they can't be used in devices that need the full 1.5 Volts. It's always worth a try though. For applications that need 1.5 Volts: There's Energizer Ultimate Lithium LiFeS2 non-rechargeable cells which have about 1.8 V cell voltage and good energy density. These work in everything I threw at them, so far. Pricey but may be worth it for some special stuff. Then there's these rechargeable Lithiums that have an integrated voltage regulator that puts out exactly 1.5 Volts. They can't be charged in a standard charger and usually come with a little USB charging-chest. They can be bought separately, though. I denuded one of these and shorted it out deliberately, no fire but lots of *very* stinky smoke from the sulphur, can not recommend. ;) I put some on my battery tester and they performed ok, 3100 mWh instead of the advertised 3600 but still within the capacity range of alkalines. Found only chinesium brands so far, so quality may vary... Chargin chest example: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XjBVKXH4I0M When I tested these, (discharged with 1 Amp) they put out a flat 1.5 Volts until they were almost discharged, then went down to 1.1 Volts for a little while before going dead. This means they should even trigger a low voltage warning befory dying completely. Video comparing NiMH and EBL regulated 1.5 V Lithiums: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrMNZzRa2Zw In any case, might be worth looking into for anyone frustrated by leaky batteries and destroyed gear. Anyone need a few new packs of a dozen AA alkaline batteries?

(post is archived)

[–] • 2 pts

Eneloop NiMH

They are quite expensive, but really worth it. I have had some powering some devices at home, for years, and never failed.

[–] • 1 pt

This is the answer. I have some of the OG blue ones from 2008 that still work with only a 13% drop in capacity. The high power black Eeloop are what I've been stocking up now.

[–] • 1 pt

Yes, screw those expensive disposable batteries that leak and destroy devices. I switched to NiMH years ago and haven't regretted it. I got a bunch of the Ikea ones that (used to?) be made in Japan, supposedly on the same line as Eneloop. I've got a ton of various brands of Chinese NiMH and they've been fine for general use. I reserve Eneloops for things that last a long time between charges to make best use of their low self-discharge.

For the few devices that need the full 1.5V, I use the Li-ion AA/AAA batteries that have a tiny buck converter to output a stable 1.5V. I've gotten a ton of them and they all tend to have a lower capacity, but better than disposable for those few devices that need them. They do drop voltage near the end, but there's not much warning. For devices that use a pair of AA, sometimes I use a single 3.2V AA LiFePO4 and a dummy AA battery (just connects both ends together).

Anyone need a few new packs of a dozen AA alkaline batteries?

And my big bag of them that I don't use that are slowly going bad.

[–] • 1 pt

For some of the stuff I have (older devices that had a battery for bias, or radio gear from the proper era) I go out of my way to find carbon-zinc cells. They're still out there, but hard to find. They can leak, but they're not corrosive like alkalines.

With modern alkalines, you have to be on your toes about changing them regularly. I never let them die in devices. It's "common wisdom" that you never leave the batteries in something you're going to store, but using them in portable gear is a risk as well.

[–] • 2 pts

Good tip re carbon-zinc. Didn't even have these on my radar still. Found some easily on Bezos' little site.

Yeah, theoretically I don't store stuff with batteries in it. Except when I do...

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

Carbon-Zinc doesn't have the energy density that newer technologies have, so it may not work well for some devices.

Remotes, smoke detectorsceiling birds, batteries in a closet flashlight you change every 3 years...yeah, fine.

[–] • 1 pt

find carbon-zinc cells. They're still out there, but hard to find

They are often referred to with the exaggerated "super heavy-duty" term.

[–] • 1 pt

Kind of like USB 1.1 was "Full Speed."

[–] • 1 pt

Worked for me with the low use stuff in my toolbox. Didnt work as well with my daily use KB/Mouse. Ended up being a charger swapping fiasco for the rechargeable or a $ loss compared to old school alkalines for those fancy non-rechargeable.