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My work got a huge Roland VG2-640 Plotter Printer with is 8 amp or 1090W.

Our site has bad power but does have a Generator that kicks in after 5 minutes. This thing is expensive and does 20 minute jobs.

They asked me what battery backup choice for the printer. I usually don't recommend UPS for something like that but more a line conditioner option as something this big will kill a UPS in my experience. I contacted Roland but couldn't get anyone on the phone or no response yet from email. A 1500 Watt unit could? At the same time this is all NEMA 5-15P plugs. Meaning anything higher will require new wiring and outlet.

Has anyone had experience doing this with such high wattage?

Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to have more concrete info than it won't work or you are going to have to spend some money to get your result.

My work got a huge Roland VG2-640 Plotter Printer with is 8 amp or 1090W. Our site has bad power but does have a Generator that kicks in after 5 minutes. This thing is expensive and does 20 minute jobs. They asked me what battery backup choice for the printer. I usually don't recommend UPS for something like that but more a line conditioner option as something this big will kill a UPS in my experience. I contacted Roland but couldn't get anyone on the phone or no response yet from email. A 1500 Watt unit could? At the same time this is all NEMA 5-15P plugs. Meaning anything higher will require new wiring and outlet. Has anyone had experience doing this with such high wattage? Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to have more concrete info than it won't work or you are going to have to spend some money to get your result.

(post is archived)

[–] [deleted] 2 pts

You could setup a system with a larger lead acid deep cycle battery but I suspect a 1500w UPS would work fine. Buy one and test it! Five minutes before the generator kicks in makes me think this would work fine.

I had a Old APC smart UPS 1500 which is 1000w with 40ah batteries and it worked but was freaking out.

[–] 3 pts (edited )

Yeah, that was probably exceeding the limit of what the UPS could do.

When I spec a system, I always follow the 80% rule. You want your load to be no more than 80% of capacity. In this case your load is (appx, according to the spec) 1090W, which means you'd want to rate for at least 1362W. A 1500W unit should work ok, but you're going to need to keep up on maintenance and batteries.

It's not going to be cheap, you probably want one with true sine capability and under/over protection. You're looking into commercial units at this point, not necessarily consumer.

Something I wanted to mention: A lot of UPS units rate their output in VA, or Volt-Amps which is exactly what it says, volts * amps. Make sure that you're getting something rated 1500W, not 1500VA.

I would recommend a 1.76 kilowatt power transformer with posi-capacitance and inner-multiphase sine electrify. this should provide easy 10 hours of uninterrupted power, lithium of course.

[–] 2 pts

Does that come with mag wheels, or do I need to get the floor model for that?

I sense a little sarcasm coming from you.

[–] 0 pt

Bro, OP is gonna need at least 1.21 gigawatts of capacity. I know, I'm an expert.

So this would be it but with lithium? https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-2200VA-120V/P-SRT2200XLA or this https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.5P1500RT.html

1.7 KW would require rewiring of an outlet in the room.

The Lithium might be out of budget range.

I see that it does not feature a phase conducer. This selection would be inadequate for the person needs.

so external to building. Gotcha.

[–] 0 pt

Why do you need a UPS for everyday use?What country do you live in FFS, in DK our power is regular and stable, we only need a UPS for lighning srikes and transportnet outages.

USA. Power in America is now variable for the people. Need something to fix surges, spikes, and browns. Having enough power to be safe in the occasional outage would be nice too.

[–] 0 pt

But why can the supplier NOT deliver a stable power supply?

That requires fixing infrastructure and fixing 50 year old cable. The power problem America always starts as someone else's problem until this tragedy of the commons is in your face.

[–] 0 pt

They started exclusively hiring non-Whites with IQ in the 60s at all major infrastructure corporations about 20 years ago, so now everything is fucking crumbling to pieces because non-Whites are subhuman retards.

[–] 0 pt

If this printer is that important. Get 2 1500w apc and an apc power transfer switch. The transfer switch will plug into each of the apcs and can provide reporting for management on how power handles.

[–] 0 pt

Use a "hybrid invertor" and deep cycle lead acid. Since you're feeding it with electric service you could use one designed for RV/boat shore power. These start at about $3k.

Or you could just run everything off an inverter non-stop and keep your batteries topped up with a DC converter designed for RV use. That would be the cheaper option.

[–] 0 pt

A combined inverter/charger will switch from.external ("shore") power to inverting from the battery, but make sure the switch will be fast enough to keep the printer running. I was doing this 20 yrs ago, and the switching was not fast enough to keep my computer running.

[–] 0 pt

The hybrid inverters are pretty good now. They sync with shore power and soft switch.You can run large appliances such as an electric stove while the RV is only connected to 15 or 20 amps. It will draw from the battery to help supply the load and then charge the battery when the load is low.