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768

It was $25,a super deal.

It was $25,a super deal.
[–] 1 pt

If you do want to give it a shot, I'd say start with those capacitors in section 1 - those are probably all bad at this point. Make sure the inductor in that section is good, that's the field coil for the speaker and you won't get sound without that - it's also part of the power supply filter. If any of those are shorted, you'll know it and you could damage a lot more stuff.

You're working with a parallel filament string, so you can unplug a lot of tubes without killing the entire set.

Any capacitor in the set, especially those old wax coated ones, are probably bad and letting them leak will destroy tubes. Resistors aren't necessarily bad when way out of tolerance, but they can make for terrible performance. Any resistor coated with sand or multi-taps are immediately suspect.

You'll also need to take into account that device probably ran on 110, and we typically see 125 today.

Other than that, if you can separate the AM and FM sections, it may be easier to get just AM working since it's a fairly simple system. FM has the ratio detector and can be picky in older sets.

[–] 1 pt

You'll also need to take into account that device probably ran on 110, and we typically see 125 today.

I would never have considered that. Was that from the typical 60A fuse box service in the knob and tube days?

[–] 1 pt

That was just line voltage in the 1950s. I'm sure there was a reason as to why it was turned up, but by the 1970s it was typically 122ish.

It's not a big deal for these devices, but the extra voltage can stress parts on the edge of failure.