WelcomeUser Guide
ToSPrivacyCanary
DonateBugsLicense

©2024 Poal.co

297

This one was a nice example of a 6 tube AA5 - it has a tuned RF front end which amplifies the RF (incoming signal) before it's brought down to it's IF (intermediate frequency) signal that the radio demodulates the audio from. That gives it the ability to hear more stations - without any further tuning I was listening to a station 115 miles away during the day, something other radios have a hard time doing during the quieter night period.

Radio came to me not working, seller said "Won't warm up." I think the guy just didn't know that the power was pull on, not turn on. Plugged it in, and bad filters - the characteristic loud 60Hz buzz said that immediately. The replacements are the two cylinders standing up in the upper right corner. Two 47μF @ 160V replaced the 40/40@150 there previously. That device was dead, high ESR and loss, and cracked potting. That brought the radio back to life, but the across-the-line capacitor had to be changed as well. That's a .047μF @ 630V that literally sits across the AC line, and helps reduce noise in the system. That's the orange-red rectangle in the middle, a brand new film cap with it's leads covered in spaghetti to keep it off of the AC below. These go bad just because they have a lot of voltage on them, and age - the part in there was a type of capacitor called a bumblebee. We call them BumbleBombs now because they like to pop, they're a paper capacitor in a plastic shell. Fine for the time, but they crack and leak and get moisture in them and pop.

The only thing it really needs at this point is a little bit of penetrating oil on the tuner, as it's gritty - a flush clean with DeOxit helped, but some Kroil is in order here. It probably needs an alignment, not a big deal but that's after the tuner is cleaned, and it needs the dial lamps replaced. Power cord could be changed as well, but since it's one of those in-the-case style it's going to need a bit of doing. I may just solder a new cord in the board and run it out the hole.

In all, it was a good find in my opinion, a nice clean example of a AA5, late enough that silver mica disease hasn't taken over yet. It's getting harder to find this kind of radio in good shape, so as soon as the lubricant arrives and I get it tuned up, it goes on the shelf in the living room for use.

This one was a nice example of a 6 tube AA5 - it has a tuned RF front end which amplifies the RF (incoming signal) before it's brought down to it's IF (intermediate frequency) signal that the radio demodulates the audio from. That gives it the ability to hear more stations - without any further tuning I was listening to a station 115 miles away during the day, something other radios have a hard time doing during the quieter night period. Radio came to me not working, seller said "Won't warm up." I think the guy just didn't know that the power was pull on, not turn on. Plugged it in, and bad filters - the characteristic loud 60Hz buzz said that immediately. The replacements are the two cylinders standing up in the upper right corner. Two 47μF @ 160V replaced the 40/40@150 there previously. That device was dead, high ESR and loss, and cracked potting. That brought the radio back to life, but the across-the-line capacitor had to be changed as well. That's a .047μF @ 630V that literally sits across the AC line, and helps reduce noise in the system. That's the orange-red rectangle in the middle, a brand new film cap with it's leads covered in spaghetti to keep it off of the AC below. These go bad just because they have a lot of voltage on them, and age - the part in there was a type of capacitor called a bumblebee. We call them BumbleBombs now because they like to pop, they're a paper capacitor in a plastic shell. Fine for the time, but they crack and leak and get moisture in them and pop. The only thing it really needs at this point is a little bit of penetrating oil on the tuner, as it's gritty - a flush clean with DeOxit helped, but some Kroil is in order here. It probably needs an alignment, not a big deal but that's after the tuner is cleaned, and it needs the dial lamps replaced. Power cord could be changed as well, but since it's one of those in-the-case style it's going to need a bit of doing. I may just solder a new cord in the board and run it out the hole. In all, it was a good find in my opinion, a nice clean example of a AA5, late enough that silver mica disease hasn't taken over yet. It's getting harder to find this kind of radio in good shape, so as soon as the lubricant arrives and I get it tuned up, it goes on the shelf in the living room for use.
[–] 4 pts

I remember the tube radios of my youth liberating boatloads of heat. In general would they benefit from an update that included a case fan - similar to what they put in computers?

[–] 5 pts

They generated heat because the active devices run on heat. Tubes operate with something called Thermionic Emission - essentially you're boiling electrons off a coated piece of metal so they can be manipulated. No heat - no electrons - no sound.

In general, tube devices - if ventilated properly - are fine as is. A big tube television, however, probably would benefit from a little airflow.

[–] 1 pt

Stop parroting what human said. It’s a sub 10 Volts filament heater.

[–] 1 pt

Maybe it's a 12 volt heater.

[–] 3 pts

What are your thoughts on McIntosh. Worth it? Any comparables circuit wise?

[–] 3 pts

The old ones are well-respected by the audio community, but I've never been able to put my hands on one.

[–] 2 pts

That’s because you don’t have hands.

[–] 2 pts

Oh lookit mister technical here.

[–] 2 pts

You could listen to my new bore-core tracks.

Ever come across a Leslie organ speaker?

[–] 0 pt

The only organ parts I've come across in the last few years are ICs that were in a batch of things a friend gave me.

He was an organ repairman...still had a lot of parts including some slide tremolo units. I only got the ICs because they were in a batch of misc parts.

[–] 2 pts

Neato. There's actually an organ repair place near me in an industrial part. They do all types. I should really apply there for something

[–] 2 pts

The thumbnail looks like a couple retarded niggers

[–] 1 pt (edited )

Best penetrant oil mix is ATF fluid and acetone. Beats all the purpose made penetrator oil IMO. The mixture dances, so there's that too.

[–] 1 pt

Interesting, I'll look into that. Thanks.