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142

So i have a couple 5.56 ars that wont cycle with my suppressor on, so for the time being my can lives on my .223 bolt gun. One of my ars i put an adjustable gas block on, but that hasnt solved the suppressed cycling issue. Im assuming a different buffer and/ or buffer spring is in order? Thoughts?

I just ordered a springfield saint victor ar10 in .308 and would like to get a can for that too, but im hesitant due to the poor results of running my 223 can on my ars. Some suggestions and insight from folks who have actually been there and done that would be much appreciated.

Thanks, faggots.

Okay, editing this comment because it pertains to several responses. Just took the gun out. Its been quite a while. Looked at the gas block and the adjustment scrrw is backed way out, open wide. First round, ejected to about 1:00. Then. Boomboomboom. Cycled flawlessly. Im at a loss here. Last i recall it was having issues. Going to go dump a some more rounds and see what happens

So i have a couple 5.56 ars that wont cycle with my suppressor on, so for the time being my can lives on my .223 bolt gun. One of my ars i put an adjustable gas block on, but that hasnt solved the suppressed cycling issue. Im assuming a different buffer and/ or buffer spring is in order? Thoughts? I just ordered a springfield saint victor ar10 in .308 and would like to get a can for that too, but im hesitant due to the poor results of running my 223 can on my ars. Some suggestions and insight from folks who have actually been there and done that would be much appreciated. Thanks, faggots. Okay, editing this comment because it pertains to several responses. Just took the gun out. Its been quite a while. Looked at the gas block and the adjustment scrrw is backed way out, open wide. First round, ejected to about 1:00. Then. Boomboomboom. Cycled flawlessly. Im at a loss here. Last i recall it was having issues. Going to go dump a some more rounds and see what happens

(post is archived)

[–] • 1 pt

Ok Queer, The gas system and bolt/recoil system are linked together forever. Any change to one component will affect the function of others. The question is will the effect be enough to make the rifle stop working.

Adding a supressor will automatically increase the gas level and pressure in the gas system. That will in turn make the bolt and recoil system work faster. This may or may not be fast enough to cause problems. A lot of AR style guns are over gassed.

You need to start by shooting 5 rounds or so with no can then check where your brass lands. From 3 to 5 o'clock is ideal. Then add the can. My guess is your brass will shift to between 1 and 3 o'clock. This means your bolt is opening so fast the brass is smashing into the brass deflector and springing forward.

Since you have an adjustable gas block, open the gas port with the can installed till you lower the gas pressure enough to get normal function. Ideally, you would set the gun up specifically for supressed or non supressed use. Having a switch that will let you go from one to the other perfectly is difficult.

A heavier buffer may help, but since you already have the gas block, run what you brung if you can.

[–] • 1 pt

Sounds good. Im about to skip town for a month or two, but will save this comment for when i get back. Thanks.

And fwiw, one of my ars i want to run suppressed at all times, another i dont care to, so it will be a set em up for all or nothin deal.

[–] • 0 pt

Hell yeah! The full time supressed platform is the way to go.

[–] • 0 pt

Well i just blew through 20 rounds on the fancy one i built for yote hunting that i want to run suppressed and it cycled like a champ. Life is good.

[–] • 0 pt

So i just tried some 77gr subsonic rounds for shits and giggles, not cycling. If i wanted to give the subsonic rounds another try, do i nedd the gas block wide open or choked down hard? Its a new subject for me. Ive always been a bolt gun / lever gun / revolver guy. I can look at this 2 different ways and see 2 different concepts having equal merit, so clearly im clueless about the entire concept.

[–] • 1 pt

Im gonna say start with open (least gas) then increase till you get the performance you want.

[–] • 0 pt

Thanks

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

Having a switch that will let you go from one to the other perfectly is difficult.

It shouldn't be... hell some Yugo SKSs have an easily adjusted 2 position gas block for the grenade launch setting. There are JTS 12 guages that have a 1-4 gas selection switch. Adding the same principle with independent screws has to be out there.

Does nobody manufacture an AR adjustable gasblock with 2 or 3 "channels" and adjustable screws on each? Then easily test/tune it to an optimal Suppressed vs Unsuppressed?

[–] • 1 pt

Clamping off the gas to kick out a grenade isnt quite the same as tuning for a supressor.

Im unaware of an adjustable block with set screws like you mention. I have heard of ones with 10-12 settings however.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

Clamping off the gas to kick out a grenade isnt quite the same as tuning for a supressor.

No, but it does show that the quick and dirty 2 channel switch can be done.

I found some gasblocks with Suppressed/Unsuppressed settings(but not a very quick or easy switch), but they were all "hard coded" based on barrel length. Nothing that allowed 2 channels with adjustability.

Im unaware of an adjustable block with set screws like you mention.

Maybe that's for a reason. Maybe it'd be unnecessary design overkill and over-engineering, and if it were me, I'd just build another AR to not be suppressed...

How's your machining, fren? We could probably sell them for $100-$200 each. And suppressors are really starting to hit the normie sphere.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

What rounds are you using? Subsonics? Any FTE or FTF? Might help determine where it is failing. Try some hotter/weaker loads and see if you have the same issues.

So you are saying that when unsuppressed, the bolt is going fully to the rear and loading new as it returns to battery. Then can on, does the bolt not go fully to the rear? At that point, your options are increasing gas in, reducing the weight of the bolt, or strength of the spring... but I'm somewhat surprised... Doesn't putting a can increase the length of the barrel thus increasing pressure/recoil/velocity of the round? If you are running with no gas being bled off, and still having cycling issues.... this will sound counterintuitive, but my guess is that you might actually need a heavier buffer weight/spring to counteract the increased blowback weight/speed of the bolt cycling with the can on. It might be cycling so fast the mag/spring doesn't have the time needed to feed correctly. I'd also try tweaking your adjustable gas block to bleed off more gas. IDK though. I'm no expert gunsmith but I dabble.

https://www.silencershop.com/blog/post/common-silencer-cycling-issues

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/AR_buffer_weight_when_suppressed_/20-385476/

I'd recommend getting somekind of variable buffer. https://www.odinworks.com/Adjustable-Buffer-p/os-abs.htm

It's something you can try to tweak yourself, but unless you have tungsten/lead powder or other metals laying around with the ability to machine it as needed, the adjustable weight buffer kit is the way to go if you aren't quite sure what you need/want, and let's you test each type. imo at least.

[–] • 0 pt

Ill look at the adjustable weight buffer kit, im assuming thats where my problem lies. Tried some subsonic for shits and giggles but have no real intention to use it. Running the subsonic through my bolt gun i was not impressed. Super fucking quiet, yeah, and the groups were legit windage wise, but must have a major velocity spread as the groups were shooting about 2" variable on elevation at 100 yards. So useless to me

[–] • 0 pt

I will try to help- no promises. How is the brass ejecting? What ammo? Barrel length? Is you suppressor multi cal?

[–] • 0 pt

Dont remember how the brass was ejecting. Its a project ive put on the back burner for a while. Got a lotta gun shit going on

All kinds of 556 and 223 ammo, mostly heavier stuff for the fast twist barrel, to knock the fuckballs out of coyotes

22" barrel. 7 twist faxon match barrel

Suppressor is 5.56 / .223 specific.

[–] • 0 pt

Does it cycle with supers?

[–] • 0 pt

Just edited my original comment up top. Its cycling just fine. Ejecting to 1:00, no hiccups, with gas block open wide. Shooting hornady 68 grain frontier hpbt match ammo.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

You never said what ammo you are running. Shooting in the dark as you haven't said what you are shooting, but have you looked at getting a heavier round and more power from a solid factory load. Lake City Federal 62 for example. Lighter spring/heavier load.

[–] • 0 pt

Gas block, lighter bolt, lighter buffer spring, a good gas port cleaning.

.223/5.56 not the best for suppressed rounds. The bullet is light so loads to get it to subsonic are weak.

.308 suppressed means hand loaded rounds, too, but the bullet weight means you can get good cycles even with sub loads.

Go 300 blackout. Factory ammo are sub. Lots of punch, little noise, factory ammo.

[–] • 0 pt

They make factory supers, too.