I’ve used that method many a time, but with a Japanese hand saw. To insure a square cut in both planes I’ll clamp the corner of a second block a blades width away to keep the blade perpendicular or use my other hand to keep it against the “fence”. Works very well. Love those Japanese saws, they are designed to cut on the pull so are less likely to bind up and easier to control. Plus they are made of good steel and stay sharp. I have one that is forty years old and still cuts like the day I bought it.
I have a DeWalt pull saw, Japanese style. It's a great saw, but I'm not well practiced on it. My cuts are never straight.
Using the guide block method should help greatly. For freehand I’ll mark my line across the board and down the sides. On the offhand side I’ll make a shallow cut about a quarter inch making sure to keep to both lines. I like to leave the lines showing. That cut will help keep your blade perpendicular. As I move along the cut I’ll now and then lower the handle to cut along the line to kind of score it, giving the blade a place to fall into so to speak. Letting the blade do the work without force allows the tailing end to follow along in perpendicular fashion. I’ve had pretty darn good results using this method.
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