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I’m trying to make a farmhouse style table but I’m being cheap. Can I use Doug fir? Any pointers to keep it from splitting over time?

I’m trying to make a farmhouse style table but I’m being cheap. Can I use Doug fir? Any pointers to keep it from splitting over time?

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[–] 1 pt

I like tung oil soaked, bag it as a whole table top and vacuum in a mattress bag, little bit of solvent if it’s compatible with the plastic and oil. Couple days, drain it (I save the leftover) and wipe and let sit for a month. Should be crazy durable and stable forever. I like the finish it gives too. Linseed oil works too, but I think tung is better.

[–] 1 pt

Looked this up. Are you sealing uncurled oil into the wood? Is that why you add the solvent?

[–] 0 pt

Have to use fresh oil, it polymerizes with oxygen exposure over time. The solvent helps thin it to penetrate deeper, but also then you have the downside of waiting for the solvent to slow evaporate. Some use citrus oil as a solvent, but my god does the whole world smell like an orange tree exploded in your house for a month or more.

When it does polymerize it creates a beautiful sheen of natural wood, less fake then clear coat. Seals out water, hardens the wood pore structure.

There was a video of a craftsman who liked to use it on his Japanese wooden black planes, minor humidity seasonal variations would affect the plane (crazy accurate sharp for see through slices), but after a treatment it was stabilized for life.

You could also spray or wipe it on, but I enjoy the thoroughness of the soak.

Do be aware, the rags used can Catch fire in a trash can. Takes about 3 in a sealed can.

[–] 1 pt

Also curious if canola oil will cause wood to polymerize. And I bet you could carbonize it as well.

[–] 0 pt

Solvent to oil ratio?