Have to use fresh oil, it polymerizes with oxygen exposure over time. The solvent helps thin it to penetrate deeper, but also then you have the downside of waiting for the solvent to slow evaporate. Some use citrus oil as a solvent, but my god does the whole world smell like an orange tree exploded in your house for a month or more.
When it does polymerize it creates a beautiful sheen of natural wood, less fake then clear coat. Seals out water, hardens the wood pore structure.
There was a video of a craftsman who liked to use it on his Japanese wooden black planes, minor humidity seasonal variations would affect the plane (crazy accurate sharp for see through slices), but after a treatment it was stabilized for life.
You could also spray or wipe it on, but I enjoy the thoroughness of the soak.
Do be aware, the rags used can Catch fire in a trash can. Takes about 3 in a sealed can.
Also curious if canola oil will cause wood to polymerize. And I bet you could carbonize it as well.
No, it just eventually turns to a nasty smelling sticky mess.
Solvent to oil ratio?
Depends on the grain of the wood. You could not use it on soft wood, but very hard wood might be 50% solvent. Careful though, much of the products at hardware stores are junk, only a little actual oil. Realmilkpaintco sells pure stuff, also available through Amazon. You could order a quart and try it on pieces, see if you like it. I did. Even my threshold plates in doorways I used it on, wears really well.did good on southern yellow pine, good on oak, beech.
Note taken. Thanks.
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