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[–] • 2 pts

How many rounds until these things fall apart? Anyone know roughly?

1 mag, 2 mags, 100?

[–] • 2 pts

Depends on a bunch of variables.

But usually they last enough to pay for itself many times over, and when they break, you can just print another one and assemble it again.

[–] • 2 pts

Sure. If it fails while you’re at the range, no problem.

[–] • 0 pt

Indeed.

I dont really see many people recommending the use of printed guns over normal ones, but they work enough for you to use if there are no alternatives.

Besides, you can always study the failure points and edit the project to mitigate them to a certain point.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

are the STL files illegal? I heard it was a while back.

anyone know what key terms one might want to query if one were inclined to 'inspect' a few of the files?

This is the one area i would not be comfortable rolling my own

Dont worry, its all curiousity and future think, I already have industry manufactured guns

[–] • 0 pt

Unfortunately you are asking it in the worst of times, but look for det_disp on an app called keybase.

You can also look for ctrlpew and find his website. That will take you where you need to go.

[–] • 1 pt

Man you guys are making me want to fire up the printer. I really want to do my VZ 61 build.

[–] • 1 pt

FINE

I'll finish building my enclosure so I can print my own glock frame, then I'll transfer all my real glocks parts to it for when the gun grabs happen, I'll just hand it to them

[–] • 1 pt

Nicely printed too! Hoping that it wasn't in PLA though.

[–] • 1 pt

Its usually recommended that you print glock frames at least on PLA+, as it was designed with that in mind.

But I've seen people print with a ton of other types of materials, like nylon, tritan, and even resin from resin printers.

When the printing time is not a concern, and cost is even less of, printing a lower just for it to crack or break is not really a problem. It will never explode or badly hurt the user, so a little experimentation is OK.

[–] • 1 pt

PLA is a low quality material which I believe should only be used for toys. Carbon or glass fiber nylon is what should be used if possible.

Not familiar with Tritan.

[–] • 0 pt

PLA+ is PLA mixed with other materials and has more strength and resistance to temperature than normal PLA.

Don't disregard PLA+ so easily, because even though there are better materials, it is still quite capable.

For instance, the FGC-9 is designed with PLA+ in mind and works great.

[–] • 1 pt

I need a 3d printer asap

[–] • 1 pt

D O I T

You Americans have it even easier, paying scraps for a good printer and being able to buy parts kits (lol, not exactly now, ive been told), have it shipped to your door and finish a brand new firearm in a couple of minutes/days.

Try that here, lmao.

[–] • 1 pt

It’s a 3D printed lower for a Glock. There are a lot of metal parts that were not 3D printed. Am I wrong?

[–] • 0 pt

Basically the only part that is printed is the frame/lower, the rest is a normal parts kit, with a barrel and a slide that you'd use one any other non-printed glock.

[–] • 1 pt

Thank you. I just have a big fucking problem when the news says people are 3D printing guns. It’s like someone 3D printing a head cover and the news tells people someone 3D printed a car engine.

[–] • 0 pt

There are fully 3D printed guns, like the Liberator (in which even the the barrel and springs for the hammer and the trigger are actually printed).

It is good for a single shot or barely a couple if you reload it with a lighter powder charge, but the ideia is to use it to "liberate" a better gun, like the original liberators during WW2.

For when you really can't get a "real" gun and getting some pipes and making a four winds shotgun is somehow out of question, this is a great alternative.

There's also the FGC, which have most of the parts printed, but still needs a metal barrel (hidraulic tubing and collar shafts) and a bolt (steel bars welded together) and springs.

[–] • 1 pt

the lower is the only part you need to register in most states