I fixed my car's A/C | Poal: Say what you want.

[–] • 4 pts

Shade tree mechanics rock. It's what men do.

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[–] • 5 pts

I originally started by replacing the compressor. Then I thought the drier was clogged, so I emptied the system again and changed that, along with the expansion valve, then I vacuumed and recharged the system. Then it stopped working again, so I went through the electrical checks, I couldn't jump the compressor from the relay, but the ECU checked out as it was sending a signal to the fans, and the relay. Then I checked the connector while I was changing the transmission fluid and noticed the open wire. Snipped the wire, soldered it to a new pigtail connector, heated the shrink wrap tubing, and good as new.

I honestly thought the compressor I bought was no good and was getting ready to buy a brand new one and drain and charge the system again, thank god it was only a wire. Just saved myself $500. Now I can buy some new clothes that fit.

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[–] • 1 pt

then I vacuumed

Known so many people who screwed themselves by half assing this (should have flushed) and not doing a leak down test. Months later, they needed another compressor. Ugh.

Make sure you added the proper lubrication, if extra needed.

But yes, chest thump worthy to diagnose and fix shit. Kudos.

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[–] • 1 pt

I used pag 46/sp10 oil which is what the manufacturer specifies. I used one oz less than the system needs, then I used an oil additive as the last oz. This further cools the air, and acts as a seal swell agent. Yes I replaced all O-rings and I have rubber caps on all the hard lines I disconnected. I'm not an amateur.

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[–] • 0 pt

I had an 03 Neon I replaced the timing belt, motor mounts, exhaust and suspension on. Payed to have the transmission replaced once because it was way outside my garage mechanic scope. Once that tranny died I got rid of it and picked up a used volkswagen with 20k miles on it. I dont miss having a car I was always worried about the next thing going wrong on it but I did like the feeling of fixing my own shit.

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[–] • 0 pt

If your system is old you should probably pull a vacuum on it for an hour or so and put some AC stop leak in there too before fully recharging it.

And since you're not licensed for vehicle A/C you can probably just vent to the atmosphere.

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[–] • 2 pts

Chlorofluorocarbons it's what plants crave.

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[–] • 1 pt

I mean if people really cared those "charge cans" would be illegal.

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[–] • 1 pt

I already did all that. I replaced the compressor 5 years ago, that compressor was used and the shaft seal started leaking so I put the one in there now. I have a 2hp vacuum pump I use to evacuate all the moisture out of the system. Since it's just my car I vacuum for an hour, then turn off the pump and see if the needle has moved at all. Fun fact, when your system is under vacuum and you pop open a can of r134 the system will pull the gas into the vacuum up to 17psi because the gas pressure is different to atmospheric. Since R134 is less dense than air, to equalize the pressure the system has to go above ambient. That 17 psi is enough to safely run the compressor provided it has oil.

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[–] • 2 pts

You'll get sub-optimal cooling with an undercharged system.

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[–] • 2 pts

Yeah I know, and if it's under pressurized it also wears out the shaft seal on the compressor because system pressure is used to maintain tension on the seal. It's at 60psi low 210psi high side on a 90 degree day last I checked, which was like 2 months ago when I charged it. According to specs that's smack dab in the middle of where it should be for the temp and relative humidity. Vent temperature is actually 3 degrees colder than specs.