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A famous big wave break south of SF. My friend and I stood on the cliff above it and watched for a while. This was about 1981. We decided it was suicidal to try and surf that. Little did we know. There was a local that surfed it by himself for years.

A famous big wave break south of SF. My friend and I stood on the cliff above it and watched for a while. This was about 1981. We decided it was suicidal to try and surf that. Little did we know. There was a local that surfed it by himself for years.

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Story time. Friend I did surf with a bit was semi-pro. Then one day he fell hard right on his head in a 12ft bowl at the skate park. Was never the same after that and our friendship just kinda dissipated. Used to love to skate bowls. You pump them like waves.