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133

So, go out to start the car a couple of days ago, frozen solid, lights come on, but it won't start.

Finally get it started, but it stalls out after a minute. Figure it's the battery.

Call the auto club. Tow truck shows up, booster pack, test the battery, battery is good, something else is wrong, it needs to go to the shop. Not the battery, not the starter, maybe the alternator, maybe the computer is punched... something serious is going on.

Next day, shop is open, time for a tow, Two tow trucks with three guys show up, boost the hell out of the battery, try every other conceivable thing to get it running. No joy. Two hours later they tow it away.

Mechanic calls, he already has my name and number from the tow truck guys, they'll see what they can do, maybe call back later today.

Five o'clock, mechanic calls, tells me everything they did, full diagnostics of electrical system, tracked it down to three components, found a loose wire, corrosion, fixed it, test drove the car, good as new, two hours labor plus taxes = $250.

Could have been $3000.

Honest mechanics, honest tow truck drivers... found the problem and fixed it cheap, same day. Five man team effort.

I felt bad the job was so cheap, I ordered extra work to make the effort more profitable.

Pick it up in a couple of hours. Getting a free ride over to the shop.

White people.

Post Script: The Old Guy was in there this morning, had to be 65 years easily, door lock was sticking a bit, he put a little WD 40 in there, got it working too:)

Damn I love this town.

I threw in the new car battery anyways just because that other one was looking kind of suspect you know? Total Job $430, Canadian. Paid cash in full as I do. He gave me the corroded plug too:)

The locals all say he's the best in town.

So, go out to start the car a couple of days ago, frozen solid, lights come on, but it won't start. Finally get it started, but it stalls out after a minute. Figure it's the battery. Call the auto club. Tow truck shows up, booster pack, test the battery, battery is good, something else is wrong, it needs to go to the shop. Not the battery, not the starter, maybe the alternator, maybe the computer is punched... something serious is going on. Next day, shop is open, time for a tow, Two tow trucks with three guys show up, boost the hell out of the battery, try every other conceivable thing to get it running. No joy. Two hours later they tow it away. Mechanic calls, he already has my name and number from the tow truck guys, they'll see what they can do, maybe call back later today. Five o'clock, mechanic calls, tells me everything they did, full diagnostics of electrical system, tracked it down to three components, found a loose wire, corrosion, fixed it, test drove the car, good as new, two hours labor plus taxes = $250. Could have been $3000. Honest mechanics, honest tow truck drivers... found the problem and fixed it cheap, same day. Five man team effort. I felt bad the job was so cheap, I ordered extra work to make the effort more profitable. Pick it up in a couple of hours. Getting a free ride over to the shop. White people. Post Script: The Old Guy was in there this morning, had to be 65 years easily, door lock was sticking a bit, he put a little WD 40 in there, got it working too:) Damn I love this town. I threw in the new car battery anyways just because that other one was looking kind of suspect you know? Total Job $430, Canadian. Paid cash in full as I do. He gave me the corroded plug too:) The locals all say he's the best in town.

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THERE IS NO OBDII READER THAT WILL TELL YOU OF A BAD GROUND. You make a good point BUT until you lay hands on the engine compartment, you have no idea what the Hell is wrong. OBDII reader ( the $10,000 one made by Snap-on) will say there is no connection/no signal from,,,,anywhere. All codes will pop up that have 0 (zero) to do with the actual problem.

paste>The thing is, if the computer tells them it will take 2 hours to fix, they will bill you two hours for labor. Well, an experienced mechanic with or without technician assistance may only take 20-30 minutes to complete the job, but they will still bill you for the two hours of labor. Or they can just make up some bullshit and bill you.

You are talking about "book time" here. And what you write is true. BUT "book time" is made up in a process in a perfect manufacturing facility, where a tech removes the xmission and replaces it. In this "perfect" environment the vehicle has been pulled off the production line, and the tech does his thing. This info I'm saying is 40 years old. I'M PROBABLY WRONG, but in the old days, that's how they calculated book time, by actually doing the work, on a brand new vehicle. WHAT THEY DIDN'T CONSIDER was a rusted bolt. Maybe bolt had head of it broke off, gotta grab a torch and cut that bolt out. Too many things can and will be wrong with vehicle. Adds more time. I'm sure computers now estimate "book time".

I was paid 14 hours book time for warranty replacement of GM Diesel engines in the 80's. The more I did (R and R, remove and replace) the Quicker I got. I got it down to 11 hours total. Friend of mine got it down to 8 hours total, always paid 14 hours. Too many pros and cons to list about book time. Cheers!!!

EDIT::: Originally, it took me about 20 hours of labor. You are replacing an engine, but R&R all the old parts to put on a new engine. New engine = Block, heads, crank, cam shaft, valve covers, oil pan. 1, pull the engine = drain all fluids, xmission included, coolant oil. Remove radiator, all electronic connections, bolts for motor mounts, bell housing bolts, flywheel 2 torque converter bolts, fuel lines.

So you get the engine out, and set it down on old tire, or concrete floor, who cares? Doesn't matter, new engine has good oil pan. New engine sitting on a shrink wrapped pallet. As fast as you can, remove the injector pump (diesel, sort of like a carb) remove the 8 fuel injectors + glow plugs. TAKE ALL THAT over to the dedicated "diesel fuel pump injector" man who rebuilds all that for you while you keep going with dissassembly.

Remove torque converter and fly wheel. Give torque converter to "transmission" man. Should be good 2 go. R&R intake manifold, exhaust manifold, motor mounts, water pump, thermostat, and more crap that I'm forgetting. Install injection pump, glow plugs, injectors, stick it inside vehicle and start it up.

PRAY you also got the Alternator, PS, AC belts aligned on 1st startup.

It was damn sure a learning experience. GM, in their infinite wisdom in the 1980's said "HEY, how about we take an 350CID gasoline engine, and throw on some Diesel heads, and market those cars as diesels???" GASOLINE COMBUSTION RATIO IS 8:1. DIESEL COMBUSTION RATIO IS 14:1.

The heads, blocks, camshafts were built for gas, not diesel. The higher combustion requirements for diesel to fire (explode/combust) were higher than those blocks/engines could handle. MANY connecting rods thru side of the block. Good times, good times...lol.