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526

Happened again, dead motherboard battery. My Dell had it happen and not my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max 2 has a dead fucking battery and just after 6 months. Well I thought I was hacked or had a root kit or that the quality of linux had shit the bed. My mouse clicks and wifi adapter and keyboard all usb were acting funny, my OS was slow as fuck, and then I tried to do an install and the drive was locked and I found out that it will not unlock till I have another battery with a charge in the motherboard. I was bullshit, I've been distro hopping because of distro's acting flaky and come to find out the battery was shit in the board.

I then went online to find one and then come to find out that a lot of resellers are selling ones that are dead and refurbished aka recharged but a button cell unless marked rechargable might last a month. I think MSI bought a shitload of used but with a charge cells at super low prices or the sellers online put the old ones in and kept the new ones if they ever had new ones at all. I also found that the batteries marked durocell and ever ready and even sony might have been sitting in warehouses for years and the resellers are selling them and if the warehouse is basically not climate controlled as in really hot and cold mattering the season batteries will go dead far sooner than they will in a 60 to 80 degree controlled storage facility.

BTW I am glad of the live usbs I had lying around for emergencies. I used one to burn another 5 onto superfast usb 3.2 sandisk ultra and amazingly they are as fast even to boot as my SSD was, I just have to write down new passwords immediately into my notebook so I can recopy them onto my new OS when the battery is installed. What is fucked up is that I have to check and update the time at least one time per day or internet sites load super slow since the time for packets recieved my system sends to the server is off a bit so the server is like wtf is your time dilation dude " I garnished up that last tech part". I notice about a month ago my time would be off once in a while so I would just check it out.

I was looking around for the locked drive and found a lot of users nowadays are getting computers where the batteries last less than 6 months. I think it's time for the manufacturers to test batteries first to see if they have at least 3 volts and more like 3.3 to 3.5 is better showing a full charge and a relatively newly manufactured battery. I'm betting if I took my battery and tested it I would see around .5 or less so it basically isn't doing shit in the system except not showing a charge. I think though cannot prove it that the battery was virtually dead when I recieved it. I remember trying to install a distro so I started my PC and then it installed the system but it ran like shit. I then went into bios for some message about 32bit when installing something and it was in not uefi but windows friendly CRM and the virtualization was off and I remember setting it to the on position the day before. It was then I realized it only fucked up when off no restarting but totally off since I guess a residual charge holds for long enough to restart but stut down for a minute and the system forgets all it's settings in the bios.

So all my frustration was a dead fucking battery from a shitty fucking cheap motherfucking motherboard manufacturer.

Happened again, dead motherboard battery. My Dell had it happen and not my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max 2 has a dead fucking battery and just after 6 months. Well I thought I was hacked or had a root kit or that the quality of linux had shit the bed. My mouse clicks and wifi adapter and keyboard all usb were acting funny, my OS was slow as fuck, and then I tried to do an install and the drive was locked and I found out that it will not unlock till I have another battery with a charge in the motherboard. I was bullshit, I've been distro hopping because of distro's acting flaky and come to find out the battery was shit in the board. I then went online to find one and then come to find out that a lot of resellers are selling ones that are dead and refurbished aka recharged but a button cell unless marked rechargable might last a month. I think MSI bought a shitload of used but with a charge cells at super low prices or the sellers online put the old ones in and kept the new ones if they ever had new ones at all. I also found that the batteries marked durocell and ever ready and even sony might have been sitting in warehouses for years and the resellers are selling them and if the warehouse is basically not climate controlled as in really hot and cold mattering the season batteries will go dead far sooner than they will in a 60 to 80 degree controlled storage facility. BTW I am glad of the live usbs I had lying around for emergencies. I used one to burn another 5 onto superfast usb 3.2 sandisk ultra and amazingly they are as fast even to boot as my SSD was, I just have to write down new passwords immediately into my notebook so I can recopy them onto my new OS when the battery is installed. What is fucked up is that I have to check and update the time at least one time per day or internet sites load super slow since the time for packets recieved my system sends to the server is off a bit so the server is like wtf is your time dilation dude " I garnished up that last tech part". I notice about a month ago my time would be off once in a while so I would just check it out. I was looking around for the locked drive and found a lot of users nowadays are getting computers where the batteries last less than 6 months. I think it's time for the manufacturers to test batteries first to see if they have at least 3 volts and more like 3.3 to 3.5 is better showing a full charge and a relatively newly manufactured battery. I'm betting if I took my battery and tested it I would see around .5 or less so it basically isn't doing shit in the system except not showing a charge. I think though cannot prove it that the battery was virtually dead when I recieved it. I remember trying to install a distro so I started my PC and then it installed the system but it ran like shit. I then went into bios for some message about 32bit when installing something and it was in not uefi but windows friendly CRM and the virtualization was off and I remember setting it to the on position the day before. It was then I realized it only fucked up when off no restarting but totally off since I guess a residual charge holds for long enough to restart but stut down for a minute and the system forgets all it's settings in the bios. So all my frustration was a dead fucking battery from a shitty fucking cheap motherfucking motherboard manufacturer.

(post is archived)

[–] • 1 pt

I usually try to replace those shitty CR2032 or other 3V batteries with a pair of AA or AAA. I realize that's not an option for everyone, but you can usually just tack solder the wires on to the clips of the battery holder.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

Negative down positive up, You can likely use tiny pieces of electrical tape to hold the wires on the battery wrapping lengthwise and on the base and top clip also. I just didn't think of it is the reason I haven't done that. Also putting some tiny foam pieces on the base of the PC to keep batteries from rolling and then taping it all down would also be recommended.

I do know some stuff. When I was 11 I took apart a transistor radio and put 12 tiny speakers in series onto the wires of the internal speaker and it was like 20 times louder, sounded like shit, and burned out the radio but I sure impressed my dad for a little while till the radio $5 new shit the bed. I used all the junk tweeters in full stereo speakers we had lying around the basement and that were in the house but didn't work anymore and asked the neighbors for junk ones they had also.

Been a bit to curious my entire life just to lazy and unfocused to get a career out of it.

[–] • 1 pt

Tape for an electrical connection like that is iffy. Solder will usually flow well on those parts.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

Well I don't have an iron, solder, flux, or a solder sucker or wick if I fuck up and I'm broke as fuck.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

I believe this is besides soldering to motherboard what you were referring to with using pennies in the battery area. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3aTknE250w

[–] • 1 pt

Here's an idea, don't rely on batteries. They die. Static or flash RAM should work.

[–] [deleted] • 0 pt

So you can use static or flash ram to keep a charge to save your bios when power is removed from the PC? I think you are referring to another battery, I'm referring to the cr2032 lithium button battery on the motherboard for retaining bios settings that you set when you first setup your system for you OS and hardware you attach to the PC.

[–] • 2 pts

If the mother board makers stored their settings in flash, the battery wouldn't be necessary.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

I miss my old board from the 90's, I had a gigabyte with one of the first dual bios boards. I ended up getting the Chernobyl virus and I lost all my files but my motherboard was awesome, pressed the button on the back and the second bios just erased when it cut the circuit by opening it. I also flashed it a few times so when I erased that second bios the backup was flashed to almost 2 years worth of updates so I was current when I restarted the PC.

I also deleted everything but the OS so i used a Maxtor setup floppy with the corner window set for R/O and formatted the HD then shutdown, cleared the bios, restarted and formatted again so anything did not jump from memory to hd then shutdown again and reformatted again just so the damn thing didn't keep jumping from hd to memory then back to HD. I was reading that very thing happen so I did it a few times with shutdowns and unplugging the PC and the battery removed with power switch held to kill residual charge. I was high as fuck and more paranoid but it worked so it was worth the extra steps.