yes my left and right front speaker lines will turn into multiple RCA outputs
That's easy enough, there are plenty of speaker-level to line-level converters out there. If you want to go from two to nine, you'll need to first determine how you're going to mix the two channels down, unless you want 18 total outputs. After you get the line levels, then it's simply a matter of buffering it and feeding it into the requisite number of amplifiers. For the most part, line is high impedance so putting a blocking capacitor after the plate and feeding your signal into the appropriate resistor will give you the impedance you're looking for.t
In regards to the comment you posted on mine about noise and tubes -
Tubes are fun to use and they're a cool thing. But they're also power hungry, generate a lot of heat, and require higher voltages than you're going to find in a car. For most common applications, say a 12AX7 triode line-level amp, you're going to need 200mA of regulated 12V for the filaments (needs to be regulated, your alternator floating all over the place will burn them out quickly) and 180-250VDC of plate voltage.
So not only are you now concerning yourself with a relatively fragile heater in a glass bottle, you need two more circuits to generate the appropriate voltages. Using solid-state supplies here can generate a lot of what's called hash noise, so you're going to struggle getting a clean voltage to not make your tubes whine.
Don't buy into the hype that tubes are somehow better - a simple good quality op-amp circuit will do the same thing, be cleaner, and work better.
you don't really see tube amplifiers in car audio but look what has popped up as of late. https://www.nonsolospeakers.com/4-channel-amplifiers/9944-nakamichi-n40t-450wx4-tube-amplifier.html
they are a new company and everyone who acquires their products see to be extremely satisfied. though I'm not trying to design a tube amplifier like they have yet lol I was just curious on building a well I guess 2ch x 9ch tube amplifier that converts speaker line impedance and outputs an adjustable RCA signal that can amplified so I can send super clean signals as uneffienct as possible hahaha. now i found that amplifier i might even go as uneffienct as possible to seek crispy clear. i have done basic sound deadening now the sealing and sound insulation comes
That amp isn't using tube finals, it's solid state. They've simply stuck a couple of triodes in there as a pre-amp. Looks like they use 1/2 of a 12AX7 for each channel.
regarding the tube voltage issue I think that can be overcome by I can place a capacitor bank or a Voltage Stabilizer between alternator and battery when will drastically improve voltage smoothness.
I am fixing to build a battery Isolator probably diode based, which is going to insure my main system is safe from draining with the secondary.
I found a bunch of super capacitors that ranged from 100F-3400F and voltage ranged 2.7-5.5v for $6-$45 each. I can wire how every many in series to obtain a needed voltage in the rear along with either a XS Power battery or a sodium ion power bank that has plenty of reserve. I can probably find a DC - DC booster that can handle the voltage difference the tube will need.
I might be a gleam idea but I really would like to design one and make it for enjoyment and the learning aspect. never got to play with tubes and now I'm older I want to experiment while I can and stuff a knowledge deep in my sons brain. he is always building paper robots. im going teach him to build speakers then we are going to try to build a rotary speaker for my truck that will be infinte baffle so should be absolutely bonkers in there.
based on your comment with my intended goal truly what I'd be trying to accomplish is a Class A tube amplifier that used Speaker Line inputs, change speaker line impedance, signal through gain adjustable amplifier circuit, output signal to RCA's, RCA connects to amplifier connected to speaker
so based on that would it be possible to then connect a simple opamp circuit for the impedance change and feed that to a Class A Tube amp input for the HiFi signal and do the biasing and switching with a Class D output and just output the signal to RCA's that will be used for the inputs of the amplifiers which then in theory if all Class D amps are used to amplify the signal system should be Eff but also crisp clean and breath taking all done with the desire to obtain it through non-dsp means just good ol circuit designing
It's not smoothness that you're worried about here. It's 12.6VDC. Period.
Your car's electrical system is rated for 13.8VDC. Your tubes want 12.6 (or 6.3 or 3 or 5 or 1 or whatever tube you've chosen.) Going above that range by too much will burn out the filament or stress it to the point where your expensive tube is now a glass bottle with some metal in it. Yes, a 12.6VDC tube can handle 13.8VDC, but that's the absolute upper limit. You're still short the plate voltages which you'll need to invert to get to the higher voltage. You can get inverters to do that, but solid-state stuff can induce noise. Your car's electrical system can induce a lot of noise as well, especially stuff with a lot of modern electronics. You're going to need a lot of filtering and shielding to do this right.
A word about what line-level means, when you say that it refers to a very specific thing. 1V @ 600Ω is typical line output, 10k is typical line input. You don't need more than that - I would usually limit my stuff to 2V when I did some audio work. I'd also usually tie the output of the preamp to 20k - that seemed to work well. Get too much of a mismatch and you get noise.
Are you looking to use 9 monoblocks for your finals? I assume you want mono output, and not stereo?
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