you don't really see tube amplifiers in car audio but look what has popped up as of late. https://www.nonsolospeakers.com/4-channel-amplifiers/9944-nakamichi-n40t-450wx4-tube-amplifier.html
they are a new company and everyone who acquires their products see to be extremely satisfied. though I'm not trying to design a tube amplifier like they have yet lol I was just curious on building a well I guess 2ch x 9ch tube amplifier that converts speaker line impedance and outputs an adjustable RCA signal that can amplified so I can send super clean signals as uneffienct as possible hahaha. now i found that amplifier i might even go as uneffienct as possible to seek crispy clear. i have done basic sound deadening now the sealing and sound insulation comes
That amp isn't using tube finals, it's solid state. They've simply stuck a couple of triodes in there as a pre-amp. Looks like they use 1/2 of a 12AX7 for each channel.
thanks for input ill avoid it until I find or can design build what I want. why I posted it I knew you could see it for what it is.
My main objective was focusing on signal conversion and using a tube to let me amplify signal enough to meet amplifier's max input voltage gain needing no more than 25% and producing far more rated output with one crisp ass input signal outputting clean tonality, and musically blissful tubes are known for. I personal think they are better but that is my opinion.
So what I gather off your last post ill have to put a Low Pass before or after speaker line impedance is changed to remove any frequencies above say 120hz, then using a voltage regulator, smoothing filter and some capacitors, I can properly power the tubes preamp, run signal through to a Class D output modified to be RCA.
To answer the other question about the outputs I would need 8 channels for the front and 3 channels in rear maybe more as not sure on how many channels that depends on if I run a 3way component or just a set of 2/3 way coaxial's in doors for fill. I prefer doing a complete rear sound stage like the front so passengers can enjoy the same music as the front so possibly 7 channels in rear so between 11-15 channels when completed and depending on how far I got in rear. super complexity would come if I wanted to make each channel seperate which I taking a wild guess would require a High/Low pass filter network for each channel so they were define for a purpose. if I have to do that I would need up front 1 Mono, 3 Stereo Channels Mid-Bass, Mid-Range and Tweeter, Rear would need 1 Mono and 1-3 stereo channels. i would place outputs like so
|front-left | front-right | | front-sub | | rear-left | rear-right | | rear-sub |
In theory I suppose I'm trying to do similar as that "Nama" amp. they are using high and/or low level running through tube preamp and using the class d solid state eff to boost speakers.
I'm trying to convert the high level input into a signal to run through a tube preamp then through a Class D amplifier that outputs a RCA signal instead of outputs for speakers where I want to build a amplifier tube Line-Out Converter for the amplifiers that will power the speakers. might be far fetched but it is a interesting idea and I'd like to see how it affects the performance of amplifier classes. I know there are plenty of Converters but they are tubed and if something and be tubed then lets tube it
I think you're diving into a deep project here, so my advice would be to first learn about vacuum electronics and how they work, what kind of voltages you need, and how they respond to things like filament voltage fluctuations and differing noise profiles. Do this before you commit to using antique electronics in your project - there are better and cleaner ways of doing what you want, and tubes won't add anything to the audio stream if they're operated in the correct range. Literally, if you're getting coloring in the audio your circuit is broken. Fix it.
One of those cheap Chinese preamp kits from Aliexpress using 6J1 Pentodes is a good start. Those kits are terrible, but they'll teach you about tubes and how they work when not run optimally. Just don't use those with your good audio gear, they can have strange things on the output when turned off. Get a good meter and maybe even one of those meterscopes so you can poke around. (Don't buy 12AX7 tubes from there. Just don't. Go to hamtubes.com or someplace and get them.)
If you're really intending to use tubes in the preamp, then don't worry about anything before or after this circuit - that's all not relevant. As long as you give it the input it needs and get the output you want, the rest of the information can be worked out as you install it. There are plenty of circuits out there using things like the 12AX7, 14N7, etc...just look around. Just make sure you pick the circuit for what you want, as various tubes are rated for different kinds of amplification or oscillation, as well as various types of rough or normal service, and microphonics, etc.