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252

History: https://poal.co/s/Cars/703234

So the Buick I have been fighting seemed fixed and worked for a bit, then the random shutting off returned and with a vengeance. I could not go even a brief drive down the road without it shutting off, but now the transmission started to blow out. It would no longer move out of 1st, even manually setting to another gear, but it would reverse and neutral. I had already long suspected that when we got it replaced about 6 years back, they put in the wrong model as there is one specifically for the supercharged engine. Anyways, took it to the mechanic and we decided to move forward with a replacement. Fucking expensive. We mad the choice since the engine seemed to be in great shape, with exception to it shutting off, but when it ran, it ran great and sounded nice.

So, the transmission was replaced and now we have severe knocking in the valve cover area. So we took it back as it wasn't there prior and the mechanic agreed to have a look. A few days later and they call me down to show me that there is no oil pressure bringing oil to the rockers/lifters (whatever they're called) and thus the knocking in the valve cover area. I explained that was not an issue prior; he explained they performed an oil change, main bearing seal change, the transmission itself, and replaced a MAP sensor as it apparently had issues as well (the one sensor I didn't replace). He claimed they couldn't really agree with noise being present prior since the car wasn't really running great and so it already sounded bad. I agreed as I am not trying to get money or free shit here, but the lifter noise was most definitely not there. In fact, I actually have video of the engine prior to trans change as a coincidence, but whatever. The mechanic has told me the engine needs rebuilt as this is likely bearing wear that has caused the oil pressure to not be where it should be, a legit diagnosis. HOWEVER - wouldn't this be present prior in many ways like low oil pressure lights and all sorts of issues to lead to an eventual pressure failure? This became an 'overnight' issue which doesn't sit well with me, though I am amateur at best.

Anyways, they still have the car and agreed to pull the oil pan, check the screen and replace the oil with 10W instead of 5W (as per oem) and let me know. That was 5 days ago.

Reading online, there are a few things that this can be; oil pump (though highly unlikely), sending unit/sensor, bearing wear, wrong oil type or filter, a leaking or misplaced seal,... There's quite a lot.

Suggestions? Time to drive it off the local cliff?

History: https://poal.co/s/Cars/703234 So the Buick I have been fighting seemed fixed and worked for a bit, then the random shutting off returned and with a vengeance. I could not go even a brief drive down the road without it shutting off, but now the transmission started to blow out. It would no longer move out of 1st, even manually setting to another gear, but it would reverse and neutral. I had already long suspected that when we got it replaced about 6 years back, they put in the wrong model as there is one specifically for the supercharged engine. Anyways, took it to the mechanic and we decided to move forward with a replacement. Fucking expensive. We mad the choice since the engine seemed to be in great shape, with exception to it shutting off, but when it ran, it ran great and sounded nice. So, the transmission was replaced and now we have severe knocking in the valve cover area. So we took it back as it wasn't there prior and the mechanic agreed to have a look. A few days later and they call me down to show me that there is no oil pressure bringing oil to the rockers/lifters (whatever they're called) and thus the knocking in the valve cover area. I explained that was not an issue prior; he explained they performed an oil change, main bearing seal change, the transmission itself, and replaced a MAP sensor as it apparently had issues as well (the one sensor I didn't replace). He claimed they couldn't really agree with noise being present prior since the car wasn't really running great and so it already sounded bad. I agreed as I am not trying to get money or free shit here, but the lifter noise was most definitely not there. In fact, I actually have video of the engine prior to trans change as a coincidence, but whatever. The mechanic has told me the engine needs rebuilt as this is likely bearing wear that has caused the oil pressure to not be where it should be, a legit diagnosis. HOWEVER - wouldn't this be present prior in many ways like low oil pressure lights and all sorts of issues to lead to an eventual pressure failure? This became an 'overnight' issue which doesn't sit well with me, though I am amateur at best. Anyways, they still have the car and agreed to pull the oil pan, check the screen and replace the oil with 10W instead of 5W (as per oem) and let me know. That was 5 days ago. Reading online, there are a few things that this can be; oil pump (though highly unlikely), sending unit/sensor, bearing wear, wrong oil type or filter, a leaking or misplaced seal,... There's quite a lot. Suggestions? Time to drive it off the local cliff?

(post is archived)

[–] • 2 pts (edited )

It could easily be a clogged oil galley, or a slightly spun, but not overlapping bearing, which, at the end of the day, would still need the block hot tanked, or bearings replaced, to properly fix. I have seen cases of both. I wouldnt think the bearing from the description, I would think more a clogged oil passage. How often do you change the oil? Are you the original owner? What was the maintenance like for its lifetime is the real question.

Small oil passages are drilled into the crank, block, and heads. these passages let the oil pass.

If you feel attached, then by all means, grab another 3800 and go at it. Look at the price of salvage yard engines, long blocks from a running SC should so the trick for less than a total rebuild, but that can also lead to more of the same.

You seem to have replaced a lot of parts on your own, and seem capable of doing the work. The mechanical work of rebuilding an engine isnt really all that difficult, and jewtube university will teach the parts you dont know. It may require specialized tools you do not possess though. The feeling when you built that engine itself and it comes to life is amazing. Even better once it moves the car down the road.

The thickness of the crankshaft bearings determines overall oil pressure.

You sound like you are working to maintain a money pit here. At least that's what my car experience is screaming.

I would take the car, and sell it for parts prices. If you shop it around and dont let the first person low ball you, you can get something out of it, brand new trans, is worth that at least, even if you yank said trans and ebay it.

If you can afford to pick up something else, do so, dont throw more money into this thing. Its an 01 Buick. They werent the greatest cars from an interior lasting perspective, not BMW bad, but still 20 year old GM bad...

If you can only afford small money, and need a reliable car. I would recommend a Toyota Camry or Honda Accord. '10-'15 of either model is right around 10K in nice shape with only 100K miles. Which for either, is nothing.

Smaller money, look for a Corolla or Civic. That Corolla / Civic isnt going to wow you in performance, but it will get 30MPG and run for 500K miles with the proper maintenance. 100K miles is nothing to be afraid of with a Corolla or Civic. The civics that will wow you with performance, you arent buying for small money and if you can, avoid it, its a money pit waiting to happen. Model years '05 - '10 with 150K can be had for 6K from stealerships, so you will find better deals.

Seek something with good maintenance records. Check the carfax. Look for lots of oil changes, and the maintenance listed in the books, like the 60k service...

Note to add: If you pick up something new. Avoid any CVT like the plague. Maintenance intervals still arent set right on them and they are a planned destruction item when created.

[–] • 2 pts

I probably would have walked away when the transmission needed replacement. Usually those 3800s run forever tho.

[–] • 1 pt

Usually those 3800s run forever tho.

Thats where we were at - replacing the trans was still less of a cost than a new car, depending of course to how long it lasted after replacement.

Sigh...

[–] • 1 pt

replacing the trans was still less of a cost than a new car,

I feel u. I'm in process of doing some body work on my 2013 impala. At 114k nothing mechanically wrong with it, been keeping up on all that, but the body definitely needs a refresh.

Love the car and with current prices not willing to let it go.