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617

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[–] • 5 pts

the part that is reasonable is having engine RPM up when engine is cold

The issue is that oil is cold and not lubricating the engine enough, also, piston is getting warmed up quicker than the outside, leading to higher attrition.

the best is to plug the engine to electric warmer, if there is electricity .....

[–] [deleted] • 2 pts

This is what i was going to say. You shouldn't rev ethe engine until it has warmed up above the cold line. Once you start getting some readings above c it's fine. Typically you should always wait a few minutes before driving off after the car has sat long enough to completely cool off.

[–] • 3 pts

The author touches upon all the basics. Checking fluid levels every time is overkill, once a month should be sufficient, watch for leaks on the pavement underneath in the meantime. Essentially, everything he suggested is accurate.

[–] • 2 pts

Agreed. I live in Canada. I've lived in Edmonton for 6 months, -30 - -45 every winter. Not maintaining your vehicle there can cost you your life.

[–] • 1 pt

Northern Maine has temperatures approaching that, I've seen -35F when snowmobiling up there. Most of the locals carry jumper cables and fuel de-icer in their vehicles. They let their cars/trucks run 20 minutes and longer before taking of in those temperatures. They start off slow to let the grease in the wheel bearings and u-joints warm up a bit before going full speed. You are absolutely bright, it can be a matter of life and death at those temperatures in remote or less traveled areas.

[–] • 0 pt

With low tension piston rings and the extended "life" of synthetic oil it is extremely common for modern vehicles to be ran low on oil.

[–] • 0 pt

The raw gas from direct injection helps replace that burnt oil that made it past the low tension rings and keep the oil level near the full mark. Ask Hyundai and Kia owners - and IIRC, some 2012-2014 Toyota's with direct injection. They had to replace their engines.

They actually have a new oil blend that is supposed to help prevent the oil burning/oil thinning from raw gas issue in direct injection engines- SAE 0W-16.

[–] • 2 pts

>By idling and revving the engine, harmful pollutants can be released and can lead to problems with the engine down the line.

I'm far from an expert, but this stinks of kike bullshit.

[–] • 3 pts

If the catalytic converter is cold, exhaust deposits can form in the cat from unburned fuel when revving up the engine before its warmed up. Cold engines run rich until they get to operating temp.

[–] • 1 pt

They're right, to a point. At least if they're talking about revving an engine to warm it faster.

WRT the pollutants, there are two significant factors that can lead to that. One is that the rings haven't expanded and don't seal as well, so fuel and oil can pass them more easily. Oil won't burn well or at all in a gasoline engine so you'll get a lot of gunk out the tailpipe from that. Also, catalytic converters don't really work until they're hot, so you're not getting the reduction of CO, unburned fuel/oil, or NOx.

And like others have said, revving a cold engine causes much more wear because the oil is not as viscous and isn't circulated as well as when the engine is at operating temperature.

So it does sound like they're pushing the kike line, but it does have some big nuggets of truth in it.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

Good to know. Honestly this is the first time I hear about revving the engine to defrost the car.

I just scrape off most of the snow and ice and the rest is easily gone in a few minutes of blasting the heater on max.

[–] • 1 pt

Yeah that's how pretty much any normal person does it.

[–] • 1 pt

Yes it is is kike bullshit. The catalytic converters won't work properly until they hit their operating temperature, but the "harmful pollutants" they release is negligible unless you're running your car in a closed garage. The jews and their shabbos goyim flying all over the world in their private jets to gather at climate change meetings that tell us we're the problem don't give a shit about the environment. It's just about jew control over the goyim.

Thinking about this just now, I'm surprised they haven't tried to tell us climate change is happening because of the 6 gorrillion jews and muh holohoax. I bet if I search that I'll find some article written by a (((journalist))) that says that. Fucking jews.

[–] • 2 pts

A cold engine will produce soot the same way holding a spoon in a candle flame causes it to be covered in soot. The cold cylinder wall cools the air-fuel mixture before it fully combusts. That cylinder is kept far too cold by the very cold oil. Until the engine reaches operating temperature the engine is not running as clean or efficient as it can.

But you are right not to trust the jews.

[–] • 1 pt

Cars today now have pre-cats for the cold starts. But it's a good idea to not rev your cold engine, let the car do it's warm up start on its own.

This is also good reason to have a large displacement engine, for winter. Below 0, it gets hard for small engines to put out enough heat for the interior.

[–] • 1 pt

Everyone is ignoring what the article actually says and what the question really is -

Should you warm up your vehicle or just drive it? And what about revving the engine?

Answer - *The UK's winters aren't that cold and in the UK (where the article is written) it's usually ok to just drive. But in colder places, warm it up. Don't rev unless the engine is struggling. *

The article is written in manipulative language. For example - A cold engine releases harmful pollutants, and can have problems down the line.

What they're saying is true but they're saying it in a manipulative way. Any engine warm or cold, in summer or winter, new or old, releases pollutants and wears out the more you use it.

Again, if it's above freezing, you can just drive. But if it's actually cold, warm it up (yes you are burning more fuel, releasing more pollutants, and wearing out the engine by using it more) but you need to get the thickened fluids flowing properly and the metal to warm up and expand. Allow the engine do this slowly at idle speed. Do not rev and force the engine to run at a high RPM when the fluids are thick and cold. If the engine is struggling at idle speed, rev it up to where it isn't struggling, but don't red line it. And once your vehicle is warmed up, don't suck on the tailpipe. Just because it's warm, that doesn't mean it isn't still releasing harmful pollutants.

[–] • 1 pt

You don't need an expert to verify this, it is obvious.

What they fail to mention about the battery is that it also produces far less amperage in cold weather because the battery relies on chemistry to produce electricity and chemistry is highly dependent on temperature.

[–] • 1 pt

Gave the article a quick read. Verify which part, specifically? Start and drive, right away? Idk about newer vehicles, I'd check the owners manual for those. But older, I'd let it warm up, at least until the antifreeze cycles. Idk about anyone else, but I wouldn't start and drive simply cuz of being inside a cold vehicle. Specifically warming up an older vehicle with a carburator: depending on the engine size, I used to hold the throttle at approximately 1200- 1500 rpm to warm up. (I've done this with fuel injection vehicles, too. Just creating a load on the engine to make sure it doesn't die.) In the fall, do a general PM on the vehicle. Check the battery. If it's questionable, just replace it. You don't want to be out changing a battery in the cold. Even as quick of a job as it is, it can be a miserable job. For less than a hundred dollars, just swap it out

[–] • 3 pts

Car batteries are like $250 these days.

[–] • 2 pts

I just looked. Consider me shook to the core. (Talk about sticker shock. Been at least two years since I've bought one.) Cheapest I saw is 140. Unbelievable.

[–] • 0 pt

I paid around $110 for an EverStart MAXX at Walmart about 6 months ago. 800CCA.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

I got one of those and it lasted about 2 years. The old battery was toast at 3am when I used to leave for my shift, and wal-mart was the only store open because it was on the border of the hood where I live. When it crapped out, I replaced it with a quality battery from O'Reilly's and that one's been great.

[–] • 0 pt

It's best to let the Engine warm up at low RPM's, slowly. The pistons are aluminum and heat up and expand much quicker than the Engine block and Cylinders. It's referred to as a Cold Seize condition, when the piston expands faster than the Cylinder and becomes metal to metal with no clearance for oil to lubricate the cylinder walls. Because there is only about 3 thousands of on inch of clearance between the Piston and Cylinder. 1 hair on your head measures 3 thousands of an inch.

[–] [deleted] • 0 pt

Interesting.

So what's the difference between and synthetic and non and the pros and cons of using either?

[–] • 0 pt

Sorry for late response.... Holidays. Synthetic will be more stable under most conditions. It also doesn't break down viscosity as soon as Conventional lubricants. Full synthetics, like Power Purple, Valvoline and Mobil 1 are all great choices and will last longer between oil changes than Conventional Oils because the viscosity stays more stable for much longer. However, there are some really good Conventional petroleum based oils that work really well, like Kendall.... it's not cheap and it's a bit hard to find, but I know racers that use it exclusively... and they aren't sponsored by them,,, they do very little advertising. I think most oils, Syn or Conv will work fine for most engines, from lawnmowers, motorcycles, generators and cars and trucks... and when changed along with new filters at proper intervals, most probably wouldn't be able to measure any difference in wear. Unlike Top Fuel Drag racing, where they dump the oil after every pass, there are much more extreme uses like offroad racing and such, like a long NASCAR race running very high rpm's that operate in much more extreme conditions.... that, I think you would see measurable differences in wear by using a Full Synthetic lubricant.

[–] • 0 pt

There is validity but if you just turn your car on and let it warm up organically before you take off, you are actually prolonging the life of your car. Getting in it and taking off when its cold, automatic transmission is reliant on oil, cold oil COULD damage seals, no oil in the cylinders could scar the cylinder walls.

If cold is a legit issue, get a block heater and plug it in.

In Short. you are doing your car a FAVOR by warming it up vs not.