Welcome • User Guide
ToS • Privacy • Canary
Donate • Bugs • License

©2025 Poal.co

975

I changed the expansion tank today and now I'm wondering if I need to bleed the system or is it ok to turn it back on. The last time the heater ran was during the home inspection when I was buying the place in spring.

Steps I took.

  1. Turned gas off to the heater
  2. Turned the heater off (turned off electric to the unit)
  3. Turned off water to the heater
  4. Removed and replaced expansion tank (old tank was rusty and weak at the inlet)

The old tank had quite a bit of pressure/water in it. I definitely got wet. I'm not sure about all of the components. I know one is the reducer valve for the water pressure and I'm pretty sure the other is a purge valve/bleeder, but I don't know if it's auto or manual. And if it is auto do I still need to do a manual bleed after changing the tank? If so what steps do I need to take?

Here's some pics of the system. If you need more pics of specific areas let me know.

Old Tank (pic8.co)

Reducer Valve (pic8.co)

Purge Valve/Bleeder ??? (pic8.co)

Whole System

The box on the pump is open because some water got in there so I'm trying to dry it out before turning the power back on. Any help/input is appreciated.

I plan on replacing the boiler next summer with a forced air system. At least then I'll know how to work on the damn thing if something goes wrong. Just gotta make it through this winter.

I changed the expansion tank today and now I'm wondering if I need to bleed the system or is it ok to turn it back on. The last time the heater ran was during the home inspection when I was buying the place in spring. Steps I took. 1. Turned gas off to the heater 2. Turned the heater off (turned off electric to the unit) 3. Turned off water to the heater 4. Removed and replaced expansion tank (old tank was rusty and weak at the inlet) The old tank had quite a bit of pressure/water in it. I definitely got wet. I'm not sure about all of the components. I know one is the reducer valve for the water pressure and I'm pretty sure the other is a purge valve/bleeder, but I don't know if it's auto or manual. And if it is auto do I still need to do a manual bleed after changing the tank? If so what steps do I need to take? Here's some pics of the system. If you need more pics of specific areas let me know. [Old Tank](https://pic8.co/sh/84X3Ku.jpg) [Reducer Valve](https://pic8.co/sh/oFYaBg.jpg) [Purge Valve/Bleeder ???](https://pic8.co/sh/mT5Jnk.jpg) Whole System - https://pic8.co/sh/a6FOA9.jpg - https://pic8.co/sh/XGrqg8.jpg The box on the pump is open because some water got in there so I'm trying to dry it out before turning the power back on. Any help/input is appreciated. I plan on replacing the boiler next summer with a forced air system. At least then I'll know how to work on the damn thing if something goes wrong. Just gotta make it through this winter.

(post is archived)

You are currently inside a comment thread.
Click here to see all the comments (12).
[–] • 1 pt

If you dont get a satisfactory answer here, give AI a whirl with this question and all of the details you put here, plus the brand and model number. I've used it for a couple of projects so far and been pretty happy with the results. It'll even give you the pages where it sourced the info from. If you need parts, it can find the exact parts in stock for you, getting around shitty search engines that stores have for the websites.

I'm not saying to take it as 100% accurate, because it does make mistakes if you aren't VERY specific with your questions (sometimes it'll still make mistakes even if you are perfectly specific), but use it as a good starting point and a way to find good sources of information without having to click through pages of links from traditional search engines.