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I've had to tighten at the hub more than I'd like lately. The barrel adjusters I already kinda had maxed. Had to play with it a few times before going out. Tension on handle is great (a few times tinkering it did go to nothing), and it'll brake for a bit, but not long, while still having tension, and I don't want to rely on front brake. Think I need new pads or what?

Tried reaching out to Anus_expander but I think he's mad at me. ?

I've had to tighten at the hub more than I'd like lately. The barrel adjusters I already kinda had maxed. Had to play with it a few times before going out. Tension on handle is great (a few times tinkering it did go to nothing), and it'll brake for a bit, but not long, while still having tension, and I don't want to rely on front brake. Think I need new pads or what? Tried reaching out to Anus_expander but I think he's mad at me. @Fumduck ?

(post is archived)

[–] • 1 pt

rule of thumb on motorcycles front 70% back 30%. Thats why so many weekend warriors on harley wreck.

[–] • 2 pts

Guess I overdid it on the rear

[–] • 1 pt

Whatchu think

[–] • 0 pt

You should at least get a seat post shock immediately. I would recommend a seat with springs and front shocks as well. An e-bike is basically a motorcycle. A motorcyle with no shocks is dangerous.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

I've got an e-bike. I'm assuming you have disc brakes? And I'm assuming you have mechanical ones?

You have to keep tightening them... both bringing the left side in and the right by either tightening the cable at the handle or at the disc brake. Obviously the pads eventually wear thin... I believe pads with a mix of metal and organic are best I believe for longevity and not squeaking.

If you don't want to keep adjusting the pads every month or so you need to get hydraulic instead of mechanical.

Don't fuck around with leaving your pads too loose to work. The one time I wrecked and broke my collarbone was because both front and back breaks just reached the day where they were basically useless and I didn't have the time to adjust them for that one single ride.

Front brakes are like 70-80% of your stopping power. So if those are still working good no need to cancel events you've got coming up in an hour.

The closer your pads are to the disc and the more responsive your stopping is, the faster you can ride.

[–] • 0 pt

I gotcha bro. With throttle on front break side, I don't want to sorry rely on that.

Also, I'm considering planning a Pennsylvania Poal meat up. I already know Theo... And another girl... But it would be neat. A few others local ish been meaning to hang with. If you're interested.

[–] • 0 pt

I think it's possible you guys planning to meet in the city or out

[–] • 1 pt

Just contemplating it atm. I'm moving soon. Been a crap month. So maybe later

[–] • 0 pt

Could you post pics? Please be sure not to self dox.

[–] • 1 pt

I've already done that a few times glownigger. Why not

[–] • 1 pt

I believe you meant to refer to me as glowniggerfaggotkike. HaHa

[+] [deleted] • 0 pt
[+] [deleted] • 0 pt
[–] • 0 pt

Okay, after looking at your pics, I am wondering, when you squeeze the rear brake, do the pads touch EACH OTHER? It looks like the rear disc does not completely separate the two pads, so if they have some wear, they will butt up against each other. It could just be the pictures, but it looks like the disc does not have a large enough diameter to completely go out between the meat of the pads. Am I seeing it wrong?

[–] • 0 pt

It looks touching. I took a pre/post squeeze pic