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I have an existing ductless range hood that I want to replace with a new, ducted hood. Fortunately the attic above my kitchen stove is cavernous and easy to run 6" ducting through to vent through an exterior wall (probably less effery with waterproofing than going straight up through the roof).

While I have the skills to do this myself, I'd rather pay a contractor to do it than spend a week picking fiberglass out of my skin and coughing my lungs up from my allergies to the dust in that attic. I learned that lesson the last time I ran something up there. A week of misery isn't worth it to save a little cash I can easily afford.

Would I just go through my usual HVAC contractor, or is there some oddball specialized contractor that I'm not thinking of?

I have an existing ductless range hood that I want to replace with a new, ducted hood. Fortunately the attic above my kitchen stove is cavernous and easy to run 6" ducting through to vent through an exterior wall (probably less effery with waterproofing than going straight up through the roof). While I have the skills to do this myself, I'd rather pay a contractor to do it than spend a week picking fiberglass out of my skin and coughing my lungs up from my allergies to the dust in that attic. I learned that lesson the last time I ran something up there. A week of misery isn't worth it to save a little cash I can easily afford. Would I just go through my usual HVAC contractor, or is there some oddball specialized contractor that I'm not thinking of?

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[–] • 1 pt

Venting outside. 780 CFM max for the hood, though realistically I shouldnt need to crank it past 550-600 CFM for my stove. That's why I was leaning towards 6" ducting rather than 3-4" ducting you might use with dinky sub 300 CFM hoods.

The current hood is ductless and mounted on an internal wall, so I dont have the easy option of venting directly out through an external wall. I have to run some kind of ducting through my attic to install a ducted hood.

[–] • 1 pt

Erm that sucks Architecture designed. In that case still don't need 6 inch. For such a long run I would recommend 3 or 4 inch to maintain pressure. Remember a 90 breaks pressure in half to regain that your straight is 10 times length of 90.

[–] • 1 pt

Don’t do 3”
6-8 is what I’m normally installing your probably going to have to work with an electrician and a hvac guy . Possibly a carpenter to finish the exterior. Honestly the whole thing is a fucking hassle and nobody wants to take responsibility for an entire job even if it’s just a range vent and by time you pay for three professionals to each of there part you’re going to be into it for close to 1,000 when just a few years ago you could get it professionally done by one man for 150 bucks and he would have been happy to get it. ………… sorry I’ve been drinking dm me with a general location and I’ll see if I can make it 🥴

[–] • 0 pt

Thanks for checking my logic on 6" ducting. $1000 was around the ballpark I was guestimating based on the hassle factor.

At least the electrical's already run for the existing shitty hood, so that'll be a piece of cake.

[–] • 0 pt

That's a bit more CFM than an average domestic hood.

Check the manufacturers literature or post the make and model number here. It should give you duct size, max length, and maximum equivalent length ( total length plus equivalent length for elbows and termination)

8" might be better for noise and performance, especially if you're going to crank it to max at times.

Definitely not 4". That'd be ridiculous.

If you have any gas fireplaces, atmospheric vented gas water heater, wood stoves, or others you'll need to look at makeup air.