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137

I’ve got two corners I won’t be able to screw into, but I’ve only got metal corner beads on spare. When I was demoing some it appears they spackled some metal corner beads on.

Is it possible to spackle corner beads on or do I have to get ones meant for it?

I’ve got two corners I won’t be able to screw into, but I’ve only got metal corner beads on spare. When I was demoing some it appears they spackled some metal corner beads on. Is it possible to spackle corner beads on or do I have to get ones meant for it?

(post is archived)

[–] 3 pts

There's fully metal corner bead. Which needs to be screwed in.

Therewa also metal corner bead that has paper tape on it, and you mud it to the wall with a layer above, and below the tape.

Generally you butter wall thickly, then apply the corner bead. Then mud over it, then scrape it flat with your trowel.

Less mud is less sanding.

[–] 1 pt

This is how I do it for metal or the vinyl but dont buy the edging that comes in a roll because the corner is prone to split.

[–] 2 pts

The wording of your question is a bit problematic, but you can use 1 1/4" drywall screws to secure a loose corner bead into the stud. Use a straightedge like a drywall knife to see if it runs flush with the wall. Tighten or back off screw to adjust. Then use a brush to remove any loose debris, and spackle.

Vinyl beads are best, use those for new projects. Adhere them with spray adhesive. Use a straightedge to align it. Watch a few videos for more insight.--The Ancient Contractor

[–] 0 pt

Corner bead should be installed with a corner bead tool and hammer first. This “counter sinks” the bead first. Failure to do this will require a lot of buildup to avoid edges of metal being exposed while sanding.

[–] 0 pt

He is talkin bout an EXISTING bead, not a new install. NEW installs should be vinyl, they are easier to work with.

--using the hammer and corner bead tool always results in the bead being mis-aligned, unless you do it on a regular basis. Vinyl bead with spray adhesive allows you to use a wide taping knife to ensure the bead is uniform with the wall. Sometimes I use 20 minute plaster in blobs if no adhesive is handy. Blobs every 12 inches, set bead, check along the length with drywall knife, and walk away. Come back later, and coat entire bead with slow-setting plaster.

Beads can also be set with a stapler, using long staples. Electric or pneumatic staplers are easiest to use. If any are sticking out after plaster is dry, just hit them with a grinder.--been in the trades 30+ years

[–] 2 pts

Spray adhesive, then mud away.

[–] 1 pt

🤔

This would've helped a few weeks ago.

[–] 1 pt

I tried and failed, spray adhesive makes way more sense. It wouldn't stop moving. Make sense now!