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I want specific dimensions for the bed frame to be minimal width to clear a door opening and to be a specific height so the bed functions as a chair but also has exactly 7” clearance. I’d like no center post on the edge to not stub my toe and I’d like it to be cheap. I don’t care about a head board.

It seems I’d be better off making my own bed.

I was thinking 2x3s as the base frame then rope as the box spring. You think this is a good idea? Seems about 8 2x3s and 200-300ft of rope. So about $50-70.

The alternative is buying a $150 metal frame and cutting it down. The only ones i can find have middle posts on the edges so I’d stub my toes.

I want specific dimensions for the bed frame to be minimal width to clear a door opening and to be a specific height so the bed functions as a chair but also has exactly 7” clearance. I’d like no center post on the edge to not stub my toe and I’d like it to be cheap. I don’t care about a head board. It seems I’d be better off making my own bed. I was thinking 2x3s as the base frame then rope as the box spring. You think this is a good idea? Seems about 8 2x3s and 200-300ft of rope. So about $50-70. The alternative is buying a $150 metal frame and cutting it down. The only ones i can find have middle posts on the edges so I’d stub my toes.

(post is archived)

[–] [deleted] • 5 pts

milk crates cable tied together.

seperated they are good when moving..

perfect height to hide with a cheap bed skirt.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

That's mostly what I use, but without the cable ties and added an outer 'frame'.

  • Place down four milk crates at the size of your boxspring so it would cover the crates exactly. Add four more crates at the mid points for supporting the boxspring/mattress for eight total crates at the perimeter.
  • Screw/attach some flat facing boards into the sides of the crates on the sides and the foot/head. If the boards are only 6" height, add two, one above the other, to cover the 12" high crates. If doing queen, cut the foot/head facing board to length. Top/head can be left open if you want since it'll probably be against a wall, but the mid-crate head support won't be attached to anything and will be floating.
  • Position bed and add one or two floating milk crates into center of the 'void' for support.
  • Add boxspring with 12" skirt over it and the nice wooden facing boards will be visible below it. Then add the mattress.
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If 12" crate + 12" boxspring + 12" mattress (36") is too low of a bed (some prefer higher beds to 'climb' into/onto), add a second boxspring. Or, for softer/bouncier, a second mattress instead.

If a second mattress is used between the boxspring and top mattress, the top/extra mattress can be slid off for an unexpected guest to use instead of them getting a crap sleep on those worthless inflatable mattresses where you wind up laying on the floor by morning anyway due to air loss.

[–] • 2 pts

Whatever you make, it will have to be the same size as a standard mattress, unless you plan to make that also.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

Ropes would start to sag a lot over time. Better to use wooden slats. I've seen people use palette wood for this. Box springs are overrated, imho, but I like a firm bed.

[–] • 1 pt

For your girlfriend I'd make it out of 2x8's and use joist hangers.

[–] • 1 pt

You could go with wooden lats (1x3 or 4s, for example) instead of a box spring / ropes, which would make the rest of the frame stiffer. I made a king size bed with 2 twin frames built in this style, and it worked. Also, IKEA sells just the lats as a set, but idk what they cost.

If you're going with rope, I'd suggest doing 1" nylon webbing. It's really cheap in bulk, but ideal for furniture.

[–] [deleted] • 1 pt

If you are worried about clearances, then design it so you can take it apart.

[–] • 0 pt

Look into waterbed bases, you may find something interesting cheap.

[–] • 0 pt

2x3 will most likely not be able to make the span without sagging, which is why there is always a center post because the shitty metal wont make the span either.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

There will be center posts they will just be recessed from the edges in the middle. Might even consider recessing them all.

[–] • 1 pt

Ahhh,, gotcha, I misinterpreted. Carry on!

[–] • 0 pt

Hell yes do it. Don't wastw mobey on an overpriced bed frame like i did

[–] • 0 pt

I'd go 2x6s if you can afford them. What kind of joints were you going to use? I think 2x3s will fail at some point in the future from normal wear and tear.

[–] • 0 pt

You gonna need 4x4 and drill holes for the rope to feed through, lacing them up the frame. Bottom to top etc. This will give you good weight distribution and sturdiness. You need the rope to be one laced piece and TAUGHT AF or it will sag in the middle. It needs to be a lot of rope. It's still gonna sag in the middle.

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