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We may have the opportunity to move to a new state in 2022. Looking at real estate in the area where we would move, nothing has us excited - and we're sick of living in suburbs - so we're considering buying land and building. We wouldn't be able to afford a true homestead, but could get at least 1-2 acres.

Has anyone here bought a plot and built a house before? Any pitfalls to look out for? Would you build again or buy in the future?

We may have the opportunity to move to a new state in 2022. Looking at real estate in the area where we would move, nothing has us excited - and we're sick of living in suburbs - so we're considering buying land and building. We wouldn't be able to afford a true homestead, but could get at least 1-2 acres. Has anyone here bought a plot and built a house before? Any pitfalls to look out for? Would you build again or buy in the future?

(post is archived)

[–] 31 pts

Check flood plains. If you have FEMA flood charts, they will show all potential flooding. If there isn't a FEMA flood plain chart, be aware that seasonal flooding may not be shown on a 50 year or 100 year flood plain chart.

Check for easements to the property. Banks require certain easement conditions to be met before financing a build. Make sure you have the proper and required access to your property for utilities, builders, and to satisfy the banksters.

Utilities. Know who will be providing them and exactly how they will get to your property, and the cost to do it.

The soil. Make sure the land is suitable for the foundation type you intend to build. This little overlook added $80,000 to our build plans. If you live in a deep clay area, shit has to be done to ensure the foundation won't shift over time.

If you need a well, make sure you know how deep you'll have to drill and if a well is feasible for the area.

If you plan on a septic system, make sure you plan it out as to not interfere with other people's property lines or natural things like creeks, ponds, etc. Also, try to stay conventional. Aerobic systems require maintenance contracts and are enforced by the county.

Oh, and always get a survey done. Don't rely on past surveys. They can be wrong.

Know these things before you buy.

[–] 8 pts

All killer no filler. Thanks!

[–] 2 pts (edited )

What he said about septic systems is very important. Just look for good red soil with sandy or loamy texture, not a rock pile, not tons of clay. You will also need about 36" of suitable material (maybe more depending on your state and slope). You ideally want a gentle slope to put it on, and realize the area needs to be cleared so cutting big trees will be part of the cost. A conventional septic costs 10-12K. If you need a pump it will cost $15000 pretreatment can go as high as $50,000 for a dripper system. Things you do not want to buy are land with poor topography (low areas, creeks, flood plains, or anything disturbed by digging) also gley soil is bad if it is very black or pale grey just stay away from it unless an evaluator tells you the soil will work. And realize your drainfield square footage will be influenced by soil texture and bedroom number. A slow soil like a heavy clay might need seven 100' lines for a 4 bed house. The same home in a nice sandy loam may need only 4 lines.

[–] 1 pt

When you hire a builder pay a real estate attorney to look at the contract for you. Make sure you're hiring someone that is successful. Lots of smaller builders are in bad shape because of crazy material prices and labor shortages. Lots are doing really well too. There are a few people around my area that have basically spent 250k on a half complete home, and the builder just "went out of business"

[–] 3 pts

Phenomenal advice! Thank you for sharing.

[–] 2 pts

Well, that was awesome. Taken notes, updated database.

Thanks!

[–] 11 pts

Price of construction is through the roof right now, maybe buy land and put a trailer or prefab on it and save to build your dream house.

[–] [deleted] 6 pts (edited )

This is a great approach. Land is the most important part if you can swing it; the house can came at any point.

[–] 1 pt

That. Just getting water/ electric might be pricey. Consider: fences, driveway, trees.

[–] 1 pt

All things that need to be figured in one way or another.

[–] 8 pts

Can you afford a custom build? Most builders use a lot of spic labor and the cheapest supplies and subcontractors. Know what you're paying for.

I work for a subcontractor and the materials are shit quality. Better catch every deficiency in the first year. After that you're paying out of pocket.

[–] 5 pts

Construction is almost always cheaper than buying an already built home. The ROI on construction is insane. The reason everyone doesn't do it is because you can't get a conventional mortgage to build a home. Banks don't want to deal with that shit.

[–] 1 pt

This is 100 percent not true

[–] 1 pt

So your argument is that home builders and people building or adding on to their own homes lose money on their investment. Ok.

[–] 3 pts

We would definitely do a custom build.

Have you seen steel customs having the same shit quality as traditional wood and brick? We're interested in steel, but the quality of that can vary.

[–] 7 pts

I don't work with steel, just stick built homes. If you can I'd avoid Chinese steel.

[–] [deleted] 7 pts (edited )

Avoid Chinese everything….

Edit - stupid spelling muhstakes

[–] 1 pt

That also. Barndominium perhaps?

[–] 4 pts

Steel framed houses are usually 50% higher in material price than wood framing. If you're willing to afford it, it's probably worth it, but that same spic will be building it. We considered steel framing, but we decided the extra cost was better spent on other things.

[–] 5 pts

If you live where termites are a thing this might be a good investment.

[–] [deleted] 4 pts

Steel framed houses are usually 50% higher in material price than wood framing

Talking to one of my employees who just started his remodel, this isn’t the case right now with lumber prices where they are.

[–] 1 pt (edited )

Go steel. Especially if you are in the US Midwest. Due to current prices you could even go concrete, for about the same as lumber depending on your area. ICF blocks have come a long way and it's gotten easier to find builders that know it. https://www.cement.org/cement-concrete/paving/buildings-structures/concrete-homes/building-systems-for-every-need/insulating-concrete-forms-(ICFs)

If you're cool with something more unconventional then look into monolithic domes. Things are actually price equivalent per square footage to framed/conventional and as close as you can get to disaster proof without actually being a bunker. https://www.monolithic.org/domes

[–] 0 pt

Fuckin rad. We had a tornado touch down about a mile from our current house relatively recently, which prompted our interest in steel. Definitely need to do some research on the monolithic domes.

[–] 1 pt

Consider a pole-barn builder over a conventional build, you can make some awesome shit and it can be cheaper and have other benefits like a better roofing system.

[–] 6 pts (edited )

I haven’t built a house for myself, but I’ve done it for other people over 10 times. A big thing you got to think about depending on which state you are in is impact fees for new homes. I know around here even if you already have a house on the property and you want to knock it down and rebuild it, if you don’t use the same footprint it’s about a $30,000 impact fee. It’s supposed to cover the cost of impacts on the roads and school system.

You also have to think about how far away the power lines are to where you wanna build. Here it’s about $50 a foot for them to run line. So if you want to build your house 1000 feet from the road, you’re talking about $50,000 just for the electric company to bring lines to the house. That does not include bringing them inside the home. An Electrician still has to do that

Obviously water and sewage are another factor. Septic systems can cost about 10 grand to install, and it’s going to be a big cost getting water to the house or hooking up a sewage line. Ideally you find a plot of land where all the utilities are accessible.

There is also the grading issue. If any of the Land runs at an angle back toward the house, it will all need to be graded away from the house so that you do not have water issues. Depending on the severity of the grade, one man with a skid loader or excavator can take care of this, but this is also not cheap a lot of the time.

One more thing to consider is deed restrictions. Deed restrictions aren’t just about construction. They may allow you to build a house and live on it, but then they won’t allow you to have any kind of RV or trailer on the property. This is very common in rural areas. A farmer will sell the land but will try to keep it from looking very trashy. So if you are planning on living in a trailer while you build the house this could get you fined. Many regulations prohibit chickens or livestock. It’s very important to understand the contract and what you are permitted to do with the property

[–] 1 pt

I was worried about mineral and lumber rights, but never considered livestock or trailers. Solid info. Thank you!

[–] 6 pts (edited )

I worked commercial construction for fifteen years and have built many homes. On the consumer side I've had one built for me, but it was a custom post-and-beam structure that was pretty damned expensive per square foot. Then again, we encorporated geothermal heating into it, which increased the up front costs. My wife and I are looking into building our next home instead of buying. Check with the BBB in your area of interest for information about reliable builders.

Edit: there are a number of large builders that offer pre-designed homes that can be built on your property. Toll Brothers and D.R. Horton come to mind.

[–] 4 pts

Post and beam is just about the most simplistically beautiful building method I’ve seen yet. I’m sure your home is beautiful.

[–] 0 pt

I’m sure your home is beautiful.

I was indeed. We sold it a number of years ago and made a tidy profit. I think, if we do build again, it'll be another P&B home.

[–] [deleted] 5 pts

Don’t sell your old house. Take equity out for your down payment, get something smaller than what you really want, and make money off renting out your old one. It’ll be passive income for the rest of your life with minimal work on your part. It will be an asset that grows in value.

[–] 4 pts

Until an eviction moratorium comes along...

It’s a risk, but if it happens you can write it off as a loss on your taxes. I’d love to get a $20k - $30k deduction.

[–] 4 pts

Depends on your taxes. I can get a ten zillion dollar deduction and all that's going to get me is about $5,000.

[–] 4 pts

IF you can keep niggers out of it without running afoul of "muh equal housing opportunity" and "muh discrimination" rules.

My advice assumes OP isn’t retarded enough to live in a nigger-infested area.

[–] 3 pts

Unfortunately, our once lily white town has had a construction boom and has changed hue considerably. They've also started bussing them in from other cities to shop at our stores, so our stores are selling shit products now instead of the previously high quality fresh foods. One way or another, we'll be moving somewhere within a year.

[–] 1 pt

Sadly, they tend to get shipped in no matter where you are.

[–] 2 pts

It will be an asset that grows in value.

Assuming a lot about the market there. Maximally leveraged investment in real estate is not a guarenteed win.

[–] [deleted] 3 pts

Very true. But real estate and property is historically one of the safest investments. And the tax breaks are retarded; they’re written by rich people for rich people.

[–] 5 pts

Define "build a house" ... that means many different things.

For most people (95%), "build a house" involves hiring a builder who has an architect and subcontractors on staff. That's easy.

For some people, that means hiring their own architect and contractors.

For a few others, that means doing some / part / all of the work themselves. This is usually limited to the Amish and farmer type who know how to run a cement mixer and know how to do framing.

[–] 3 pts

We would fall between some and most people. I've worked with multiple electricians and plumbers and I'd prefer to decide on who does each part of the build rather than hope one company hires solid people rather than cheap asses who'll just barely make code.

I wish I was at the point of being able to do it all myself, but I'm too old to learn that many new skills now.

[–] 4 pts

A few years ago I bought 40 acres in the middle of nowhere. I built an agricultural steel frame building on it. It is quite nice on the inside, but I made damn sure that the land was zoned agricultural, and that I was able to build ag buildings on it. That being said, I did not go with a traditional stick frame because the cost would have been ridiculous, and I have the ultimate open floor plan. I have done much of the work myself, and have managed contractors to drill the well, run power from the pole, concrete, and erection. I ran the circuits inside, insulated, plumbed, drywalled, hvac, etc... If I would have built a house, the taxes would have gone up considerably since the state taxes houses separate from ag land.
I wouldn't do it again, as I have the land and location I want. If I had never done it, I would do it again.
Pitfalls- The first is time vs. money. If you have the time, you dont have the money. If you have the money, and you pay others to do it, you MUST manage the site. Quality, time schedule, etc... The contractors must have a clear understanding as to what has to be done. Good contractors are not cheap.
2- Environment- is there drinkable water? Is there water in general? What is the soil like? Is the climate ideal for you? I looked into all kinds of places before I bought. I learned that in the gulf of mexico PVC and wood can rust. I learned that the eastern plains of Colorado has shit for soil. I learned Arizona is too hot, and most of the south is mosquito infested. Minnesota has shitty politics, etc... 3- You must do your own due diligence. From the land to the building, if you want it done right you will invest the time to know what you need and what you need to do. Contractors can cut corners, not run things to code, use shitty material, hide gaps, etc... It is your duty to be on top of all of them, and to take responsibility for your actions or inactions.

[–] 0 pt

Really good points, thank you for taking the time to go through them.

We would have to have the construction done from afar as we're several hours from where it would be built. That alone would mean there's no way for us to politely be up their asses. I think this alone means we should plan to buy when we move rather than build.

[–] 1 pt

My father did a two hour away build. It was like multiple trips there per week, for like 6-10 months. They were retired.

[–] 4 pts

look at zoning regulations. They are very strict just about everywhere. if you want anything that isn't a 1400+ square ft, hand built lumber contraption with a 2+ car garage and 4+ bedrooms with closets you are out of luck. If that's exactly what you want fine, but otherwise it can be difficult to 'break free' from the cookie cutter mold they are trying to force everyone. there are a ton of construction techniques and styles that are amazing but in most cases they are 'technically' allowed but you have to get a debbie downer bureaucrat Karen to give you permission.

[–] 4 pts

Conduit for any wiring. High-voltage conduit for your electrical, low-voltage conduit for any communications wiring. This will make it MUCH easier to upgrade said wiring down the line by just using the old cable to pull the new. And running 4 cables to the same outlet is only slightly harder than running 1, so no point in skimping on ports.

Rock wool insulation not only in the walls, but in the floors and ceilings. Helps with warmth and also sound absorption. Mass-loaded vinyl between the studs and the drywall will help as well. Putty pads for any junction box in the wall.

Before the walls are even insulated, go through and spray a mixture of boric acid salt and some kind of biocide on EVERY stud and ALL sheathing. From the floor up to about 18-20". You'll want it damp but not dripping. The solution will dry and leave tiny boric acid salt crystals in the wood, which will keep termites away. The biocide in the mixture will prevent mold growth as well. IIRC, you can find products specifically for this for like $150 for a gallon (which should be plenty for most houses).

Also go around and caulk between the floor and the bottom of EVERY. SINGLE. WALL. That will help prevent drafts and also keep small critters at bay.

And finally, sprinkle a little diatomaceous earth in every stud bay, again, to keep pests under control. That stuff is like crawling over razor-wire for bugs.

Another thing to consider is once the inside is done and properly built to be as tight as possible, have a crew come in to do a final aerosol air sealing. Basically they install a blower door, pressurize the structure, spray liquid latex into the air. That finds any little holes and gaps that have been missed, builds up in those, and seals them pretty nicely. Once it's done, any excess is simply wiped off of exposed horizontal surfaces.

[–] 1 pt

This much advice usually takes me at least a half hour on YouTube. Thanks!

More good advice: spray foam insulation in the attic, and a radiation barrier instead of plywood roof. Really easy ways to keep temperature regulated and energy costs down.

[–] 0 pt

Glad I saw saw this here. I do network cabling jobs for people and I can vouch for the conduits for your wiring. I have seen so many wires passed through tiny holes and pushed through insulation or even spray foamed into place. Makes any sort of upgrade or repair impossible without ripping apart the whole wall.

[+] [deleted] 3 pts
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