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I sprung a leak at what looks like the "fitting" side it's an old house so I have no clue how old the pipes are.

https://files.catbox.moe/0bdso4.jpeg https://files.catbox.moe/g61pe1.jpeg

My observations: - This doesn't look like a fitting that connects two pvc pipes together. I'm used to seeing the raised border that holds two pipes together (3/4 in. PVC Schedule 40 Deep Socket https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-3-4-in-PVC-Schedule-40-Deep-Socket-PVC-02100D-0800HD/204836249) this one in my photo is different. It only has one side and it looks like it was expanded or something to force the other pipe in but I'm not sure I'm just guessing here. - My pipe is also bent because of a 1 foot wide root from a 50 year old tree. - I'm not even sure if the PVC pipe on the broken side is even standard at this point. - I could try to cut the pipe on the leak side, insert a regular coupling but since the pipe is bent and old I don't even know if I will crack the rest when I try to join them properly. I'm not an expert on working with bent pipe so I'm not sure if there is a certain number of feet I should clear before I attempt this. Keep in mind I have to chainsaw the root so I'm trying to avoid as much clearing as possible.

I'm not sure what would be the best way to tackle this project. I'm pretty familiar with joining pipes but just thought I'd reach out for some guidance before I fuck myself.

Thanks

I sprung a leak at what looks like the "fitting" side it's an old house so I have no clue how old the pipes are. https://files.catbox.moe/0bdso4.jpeg https://files.catbox.moe/g61pe1.jpeg My observations: - This doesn't look like a fitting that connects two pvc pipes together. I'm used to seeing the raised border that holds two pipes together (3/4 in. PVC Schedule 40 Deep Socket https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-3-4-in-PVC-Schedule-40-Deep-Socket-PVC-02100D-0800HD/204836249) this one in my photo is different. It only has one side and it looks like it was expanded or something to force the other pipe in but I'm not sure I'm just guessing here. - My pipe is also bent because of a 1 foot wide root from a 50 year old tree. - I'm not even sure if the PVC pipe on the broken side is even standard at this point. - I could try to cut the pipe on the leak side, insert a regular coupling but since the pipe is bent and old I don't even know if I will crack the rest when I try to join them properly. I'm not an expert on working with bent pipe so I'm not sure if there is a certain number of feet I should clear before I attempt this. Keep in mind I have to chainsaw the root so I'm trying to avoid as much clearing as possible. I'm not sure what would be the best way to tackle this project. I'm pretty familiar with joining pipes but just thought I'd reach out for some guidance before I fuck myself. Thanks

(post is archived)

[–] • 3 pts

Just cut the pipe six inches apart get a short piece to go in the middle. Join the middle piece with two mechanical couplings. Fast and easy. Since it's under pressure it doesn't matter if it's crooked. Only Drain lines need to be slightly downhill. https://files.catbox.moe/hoed1i.webp

[–] • 1 pt

Good luck finding fittings. That's series 200 PVC. Standard fittings don't fit.

[–] • 0 pt

Fernco coupling. It's a rubber sleeve with hose clamps.

[–] • 0 pt

Thanks, since this would be buried underground would I need to check it periodically?

[–] • 0 pt

Well. The metal is stainless steel so it won't rust but I'd still wrap it in a plastic bag. After that? No. It won't give you problems for twenty years minimum. Rubber hardens up in that amount of time.

[–] • 2 pts

Dude, it's PVC. You can't fuck it up and it's cheap to buy. Hacksaw off the cracked area (both sides) and buy the proper fittings to fill your new gap. It's no more complicated than cleaning out your sinks drain in a bathroom. The sizes should still be fairly standard even if they're old. Take the cut out section to the hardware store with you so you can be certain you're getting the right sizes. You're actually very fortunate it's PVC - if that were a copper pipe, you'd need a plumber.

Honestly - mot a big deal at all and very easy for any average guy to fix. PVC is no more difficult than legos.

[–] • 1 pt

This is good advice. Here are some additional details for the OP:

1) Dig more space around the pipe so you have room to straighten the pipe once the root is out of the way.

2) Cut the root out so that it's no longer bending the pipe at all. Personally I'd use a handsaw over a chainsaw or sawzall to minimize the risk of accidentally cutting the pipe (PVC is soft).

3) Cut the PVC pipe back beyond the weird bulge one one side, and a few inches past it on the other.

4) Buy a matching diameter PVC pipe that's long enough to fill the gap several times over. Also buy at least four PVC couplers of the appropriate diameter (they're smooth on the inside and slide over the long pipe segment you just bought). Also buy some PVC cement. It's used to bond the couplers and pipe segments together.

5) Cut the new pipe segment and slide it and the couplers onto the existing pipes to make sure everything lines up straight and easily like so: ==OldPipe==Coupler==NewPipe==Coupler==OldPipe==

6) Realize you cut something wrong or gouged a coupler or somesuch. Upvote me for telling you to spend the extra $5 on spare pipe and couplers so you can redo it right away rather than drive back to the hardware store.

7) Put on a painting mask. PVC Cement is highly...pungent...and will give you a headache.

8) Apply the PVC cement under the couplers and slide them over the old pipe ends and new segment until the cement dries (this only takes a few minutes). Give it a tug to verify that it's now as solid as one continuous pipe thanks to the PVC cement.

9) Turn the water on. If it holds pressure, great. If it leaks, cut it off, try again, use more PVC cement this time, and thank me for making you spend the extra $5 on more couplers to save you an extra trip to the hardware store if you mess it up.

Fortunately PVC is pretty forgiving, particularly outdoors where "cut more off and try again" is easy.

[–] • 1 pt

This is the advice I wish I was able to give :) Listen to this man.

And I love the graphic!!! (==OldPipe==Coupler==NewPipe==Coupler==OldPipe==) this is exactly the kind of visual I'd like to have...simple, but effective.

[–] • 1 pt

My nigger, couplings are NOT smooth on the inside, there is a ridge in the center. A Dremel tool or round hand file can smooth the ridge down so the coupling can be slid onto the pipe, and then slid over the break and glued.

[–] • 1 pt

That bulge is a bell end fitting. You'll need to deal with the root first or when you cut the pipe it will sproing over a few inches and you'll have to cut the root anyway to get a good straight shot again.

If it's just for sprinklers you could could do a "four 90's repair" or file the ridge out of a standard coupling like another poster mentioned.

I don't know about the silicone tape but I've used epoxy repair tape in the past and it held up. You soak it and wrap it around the pipe and it hardens like a cast.

[–] • 0 pt

Thanks to everyone who replied. My tools and blades weren't good enough for this job & I had some minor setbacks.

I'm ready for round #2 but now it's just been raining so my project is on hold for now. I will post back once I'm victorious.

[–] • 0 pt

That's the flared end of a pipe. Build a U-shaped bridge between the pipes after you cut out the broken part. The (upside down) U should be standing up, not parallel to the ground. Dry fit the parts before gluing. Don't dick around with mechanical connectors, they can corrode and leak. Dig out the pipe so there is at least 6 inches under and all around it, put a patio umbrella over the area to keep it dry. Don't listen to these other niggers, I have been fixing houses for 30 years.

[–] • 0 pt

Cannot understand if it is drainage (low or very low pressure) or a pipe with pressure clean water

  • Drainage, could be possible to glue the crack, there are some wuite magic glues, the issue may be to dry the stuff out...

  • pressure pipe, you have to cut it and "join", to avoid stress put some elastic joining, they are steel elastic/bendable pieces of joins

To work with it, you most likely have to dig a bigger hole

[–] • 0 pt

It's a pipe that feeds clean water to my lawn sprinklers. I do have a lot of water pressure in my house.

[–] • 0 pt

You should dig more and have a better assessment. You might want to replace a good length of old pipe, it's all dug up now, so why not? Unless you wanna dig it up again in the future. Those roots will get inside the pipe and clog it right up if they get the chance, like a bunch of looser dirt around your unsealed pipe that just got dug, for example.

[–] • 0 pt

I would cut out a chunk of the bad pipe. Would 4ft be enough to clear anything? However long long to get around the roots. Then take a new stick and couplings and be done.

If the old pipe breaks let it. If you dont break it it will later. Hell cut out 10ft and just use a whole stick to replace. However thats a lot of digging.

[–] • 0 pt

Anything north toward the pipe is pure root because it's so close to the trunk of the tree. I have a hackzall and a tree limb pole chain saw also regular wood chisels and circular saws. I've never never had to cut into so much root before. What would you use for the job?

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

Damn good question.

I would try a sawzall or a small chain saw.

edit: Even an axe and a pry bar would work all be it a bit slower.

Edit: 2 Sawzall would be the easiest.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

Have had pretty good luck using a sawzall and blades made for pruning trees.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-12-in-Carbide-Pruning-and-Clean-Wood-Cutting-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-3-Pack-DS1203CP3/301697674

in the event I misunderstood,that would be my suggestion for cutting back roots. If you don't need to do that, a sawzall with a metal blade will go through the pvc like butter.

[–] • 0 pt

could you reroute it and maybe not put it so deep? I'd rather trench 20 feet of dirt than 2 feet of roots, but that might just be me.

if you don't mind being ghetto as shit you could wrap it with self fusing silicone tape and just be done. Some places sell it with electrical, i think i've even seen small rolls at walmart. You'll get hundreds of hits on amazon. The stuff is really amazing and you'll find lots of uses for it.

[–] • 0 pt

Yeah wish I could re-route. One side is all cement it's my drive way. The other side is all trees. I'll look into the tape idea though. I've never heard of it so thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like something I need to add to my DIY arsenal.

[–] • 0 pt

yeah, you can use it to make grips for tools, waterproof connections, etc. basically it is a ribbon of silicone, and it won't "stick" to anything, but you stretch it thin and when it lays back on its self it fuses. you would do something like overlapping half of the width wrap it for 4 inches on each side and go back and forth (less the further you get away from the hole). they advertise quite a few psi per pass, and it would last longer than the original pipe.

in some videos the guys will then cut off their wrapping to show what it does, and you will see it is a solid piece of silicone, pretty cool.

[–] • 0 pt

That tape is as useless as a nigger with a broken dick. It will not hold for long. No licensed plumber uses that sheeit.

[–] • 0 pt

I used this rubber-like tape that sticks to itself to fix a kitchen drain, where the drain pipe had move a quarter of an inch or more sideways on the sink strainer. It forms a seamless elastic rubber sleeve. It worked like a charm for years -- may still be working, but I sold the house so I don't know. I should add, I doubt it will work for pipes under pressure.