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I have an aero precision stripped lower that I am building up right now. I am trying to decide what brand I should look at for uppers or full build kits to complete it. From the looking I have done it is most likely between PSA and BCA. So if anyone has any advice on which to pick or other suggestions, I am all ears. I am looking to make a cheaper gun but not a piece of shit gun. I was also looking at Ceratac, if anyone has had any experience w. them. I've dealt with their customer service just to ask questions and they were very helpful but they're extremely cheap so I get worried. So any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the wall of text.

TL/DR: I'm building an AR15 and need to buy a cheap(yet somewhat reliable) brand complete upper receiver, any suggestions, advice, warnings, or otherwise relevant information is welcomed and will be appreciated.

I have an aero precision stripped lower that I am building up right now. I am trying to decide what brand I should look at for uppers or full build kits to complete it. From the looking I have done it is most likely between PSA and BCA. So if anyone has any advice on which to pick or other suggestions, I am all ears. I am looking to make a cheaper gun but not a piece of shit gun. I was also looking at Ceratac, if anyone has had any experience w. them. I've dealt with their customer service just to ask questions and they were very helpful but they're extremely cheap so I get worried. So any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the wall of text. TL/DR: I'm building an AR15 and need to buy a cheap(yet somewhat reliable) brand complete upper receiver, any suggestions, advice, warnings, or otherwise relevant information is welcomed and will be appreciated.

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[–] • 0 pt (edited )

Thank you VERY much. Is 1/7 twist to be avoided then? Most of the sets I have been looking at are 1/7. Tbh I am not 100% sure what that means, but I think I know. Edit: also I have long suspected what you said about the similarity in brands. I look at it much like car parts (esp bolt ons). There are a million car brands out there making car parts and many of them make literally the exact same thing, made in the same way, and made from the same material, they just have a different name slapped on the side, and that somehow makes one more valuable than the other. There is only so much you can do with metal. So I have suspected that, but I would never say it, because I dont know enough specifically about guns to know what type of stuff I might not even know about them that could make a difference. So again thank you my good friend just dropped 1600 on a colt LE6920, I'm looking to make this for under 7-800 lol.

[–] • 0 pt

Twist ratio is the "rifling" on the barrel. The rate at which the grooves are cut. Puts the spin on the bullet.

1:7 used to be pretty much standard because it was military default. Heavier bullets. 1:8 covers I would say the largest range of bullet weight. Best middle ground. 1:9 for lighter bullets.

I have found that 1:8 does everything pretty well if you're not competition shooting. It will stabilize 55 Grain Vmax varmit pretty darn good out to 100-200 yards, and those are pretty light bullets.

As for ARs and Cars: you pay for the brand. You can do any number of mods to a decent frame on a car and that will make the car "better/faster".

Colts (larger receiver pins) are assembly slightly better than Bushmasters, but who gives a shit. If you like colt and it shoots great, then shoot it!! If you want to save money and say you built it, then shoot it!! An barrel can only shoot as good as the person shooting.

[–] • 0 pt

Ah riffling, ok. Good to know. And thanks again. I get it now. Im still a newbie, esp on ammo. So I'll take your advice when I comes to buying my first case. You the man bro. Grateful for the passing of legitimately valuable info.