Welcome • User Guide
ToS • Privacy • Canary
Donate • Bugs • License

©2026 Poal.co

1.3K
•
Original Content Chevy Silverado Air Intake Mod

So I've seen multiple posts in forums online about the airbox being restrictive and people cut a hole in it, usually very sloppily, and they claim to get a little boost in fuel economy and smoother acceleration. I hadn't done it yet because it seems to me that I'd just be sucking hot under hood air in.

So, I made a little duct to get past the hot under hood air and get cool fresh air from the outside. It's was a cool CAD project because of the funny shape hole that I made and the fact that I had to follow one of the ribs down on the outside so I did not have a 90% corner. Also I added ribs to the inside of it to give it more rigidity since the walls are thin, 2mm. It took 7.5 hours to print since I used ASA for strength and heat resistance and slowed the print head way down to get better layer line adhesion. I also printed it laying down so there was a whole damn forest of tree supports!!

I made my hole more neatly than others I've seen

The Part

Brought it into the box like the factory one

Bridging the gap to get out of the hot engine bay

Sticks out right behind the headlight

So I've seen multiple posts in forums online about the [airbox](https://poal.co/static/images/d9e9696913a60c99.jpg) being restrictive and people cut a hole in it, usually very sloppily, and they claim to get a little boost in fuel economy and smoother acceleration. I hadn't done it yet because it seems to me that I'd just be sucking hot under hood air in. So, I made a little duct to get past the hot under hood air and get cool fresh air from the outside. It's was a cool CAD project because of the funny shape hole that I made and the fact that I had to follow one of the ribs down on the outside so I did not have a 90% corner. Also I added ribs to the inside of it to give it more rigidity since the walls are thin, 2mm. It took 7.5 hours to print since I used ASA for strength and heat resistance and slowed the print head way down to get better layer line adhesion. I also printed it laying down so there was a whole damn forest of tree supports!! [I made my hole more neatly than others I've seen](https://poal.co/static/images/61011313c38f9e3e.jpg) [The Part](https://poal.co/static/images/3e87e6c5c7c7475f.jpg) [Brought it into the box like the factory one](https://poal.co/static/images/2f2b7323687c7bd6.jpg) [Bridging the gap to get out of the hot engine bay](https://poal.co/static/images/89783711b1b4b664.jpg) [Sticks out right behind the headlight](https://poal.co/static/images/6c6c752d6f777644.jpg)
You are currently inside a comment thread.
Click here to see all the comments (17).
[–] • 0 pt

I'm guessing you didn't read it.

[–] • 0 pt

Yea you drilled a hole in the box. Don’t change the the actual restricted part which is the feed pipe. I did this back in 1993.

Put it in the dyno you get nothing. Replace with 3” pcv back to the maf with an open cone, you can see a gain on the dyno.

Been there done that.

[–] • 0 pt

It must be difficult going through life as such a negative nancy idiot. If you read my initial post you can clearly see that I'm not claiming some major performance gains and I'm skeptical myself. It was more about a interesting little 3D printing project and having some fun. I have been trying to make stronger tube structures. It is a lot more difficult than you would think.

Now go eat a dick.

[–] • 1 pt

My point was you wasted time for nothing. A cone filter would cost $40 and provide better flow.

Go drill some holes in the fenders and fill with 3d printed plugs, becasue muh printer print stuff.