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Two day print, so far so good. eSun PLA+ on Mingda Rock3 Pro

It's an adapter-adapter ;) for a measurement device at work. It's going to receive 40 pogo-pins and plenty of wires to make 20 four-wire measurement nodes, controlled by a relay matrix.

Update March 12: Some progress, also found a rat in the first layers of the supports of a previously canceled print. https://pic8.co/a/12dbe4b1-64b8-482a-8f45-adfe0001e804

Update March 20 (The Final Solution): All wired up https://pic8.co/sh/b8DpBu.jpg

Finished, tied together, acrylic cover plate added. https://pic8.co/sh/5Ointt.jpg

Two day print, so far so good. eSun PLA+ on Mingda Rock3 Pro It's an adapter-adapter ;) for a measurement device at work. It's going to receive 40 pogo-pins and plenty of wires to make 20 four-wire measurement nodes, controlled by a relay matrix. Update March 12: Some progress, also found a rat in the first layers of the supports of a previously canceled print. https://pic8.co/a/12dbe4b1-64b8-482a-8f45-adfe0001e804 Update March 20 (The Final Solution): All wired up https://pic8.co/sh/b8DpBu.jpg Finished, tied together, acrylic cover plate added. https://pic8.co/sh/5Ointt.jpg

(post is archived)

[–] • 2 pts

I'm stuck on the fact that it took two days to print that. It looks like a single color print. My print bed is not that big, but if it was, I think my printer would put that out in about two or three hours, maybe more depending on the density, but I couldn't see more than five or six hours for something that size.

Adapter-adapter. Sometimes you just gotta figure it out. It looks good, did you design it?

[–] • 2 pts

It's still printing, should be done in about 22 hours. The pic is from after about 15 hours in. I didn't optimize for speed and also chose 6 wall loops in Orca for stability. There's going to be brass inserts used for the threads https://cnckitchen.store/ and I wanted to have enough meat around those holes. Outer and inner wall speeds are at 60mm/s which is the default in Orca for the Mingda-compatible Artillery X1. Slicer screenshot: https://pic8.co/sh/7IMNTJ.png

This is a one-off and I'd rather have something usable that takes a while to print than find out near the end that I've been too optimistic. :) Also, I'm on my last spool of that filament.

The tongue-in-cheek name adapter-adapter was chosen because it is supposed to connect one of these (adapter#1): https://www.sourcetronic.com/shop/uk/manuel-transformer-test-fixture-st1901b.html to one of those fixture plates (adapter#2): https://kust-elektronik.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FixtureSolutions-kust-gb.pdf

Glad you like it, I modeled it on and off over the weekend after figuring out the constraints and dimensions of the two objects above. First I made rough models of the relevant outlines, contact and fastener points, then modeled what should fit in between. I used FreeCAD.

It really helped having a Keyence measuring system at work to figure out dimensions and coordinates, because of course both manufacturers would not provide technical drawings. They'd rather make and sell custom adapters for their own stuff, I guess.

[–] • 1 pt

What a great project. I try not to make doo dads and nick nacs too much. I really like to make useful things. I love the FreeCad, but I am a complete novice at it. I am learning though and I've made some really cool stuff.

I would love to see a picture of it all done and installed. I hope it fits !!!! Please update with a new post when it's done. Maybe some progress pictures of the wiring and stuff and then the final install.

[–] • 1 pt

Same here, functional prints are the ones where I have the most fun. Especially when I get to model them myself. Getting into FreeCAD has a learning curve attached but it's worth it, IMO. For me it clicked after I got good enough to not have to ask myself "Can I model this?" but "How long will it take to do it?" I'm by no means a pro but you pick up helpful habits along the way.

Here's a tip I wish I had known earlier: It sounds trivial but get into the habit to save often and under a new filename before you attempt an operation where you are unsure of the outcome. It's _very_ easy to paint yourself into a corner in parametric 3D CAD.

I use something like this: project-name_ii_rr_author_short_description where ii is a two digit index just counting up from 01 and rr is a revision. The author and revision thing is only really needed in a situation where several people share some responsibilities, like in a company. I name my gcode files similarly but the file names also contain the basic slicing parameters like layer height, infill percentage, support variant.

This results in some moderately long file names. The reason I put the (ii) index number as close as possible to the beginning of the name is that most of my printers only display the first few characters of the file name. (Looking at you, Ender 3 Pro!)

I'll do my very best to keep you updated.

[–] • 1 pt

Hi fren. As promised, updated the OP with some progress.

[–] • 1 pt

Wow, that board fit in there like a glove!!

Please explain the "rat" comment. I thought you were just talking about a mess of filament or something but then I look at the picture,,, and,,,, yea,,, I'm not sure now.

[–] • 1 pt

Canceled a print after maybe 5 layers and this is the bottom layers of the tree supports. Noticed you can see all kinds of stuff in there. Mickey Mouses, caterpillars and, in this case a mouse/rat/hamster thing.

I'm easily amused.

[–] • 1 pt

So you forgot to clean the build plate? I surprised that did not mess up the whole print.

[–] • 1 pt (edited )

I canceled because I noticed at the very beginning that I had forgotten to include a tiny but important feature in the model.

Re the Rat: This is just how organic tree supports look after 5 or 10 layers. As it is with clouds, if you look at them long enough, you start seeing things.

And of course I peeled off what was already there. Can't get away wit shit sittin on da plate. Gonna mess up yo day some fierce yessir!