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@NoisySilence This one is for you...

This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments:

1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought

2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed.

3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me.

4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces.

5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit.

6) Experiment with ironing.

7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

@NoisySilence This one is for you... This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments: 1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought 2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed. 3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me. 4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces. 5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit. 6) Experiment with ironing. 7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

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[–] • 0 pt
[–] • 0 pt

I have no interest in useless figurines. I was wondering about the MATH you would have to KNOW to 3D print ANYTHING, especially irregular shapes (eg engine block), with cavities and such.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

So you are talking about the difference between 3D modeling and 3D printing.

3D modeling is the process of creating a 3D model. 3D printing then renders that model in to a physical object.

For 3D modeling you should check out Blender, OpenCAD and TinkerCAD. All three are open source and have excellent tutorials out there.

A while back I had a camping canopy break and I designed the replacement part myself... took about 2 evenings of watching tutorials to get up to speed but it is not that hard. Saved a $200 canopy for about $0.12 and two evenings of learning... and now I have a very useful skill set.

[–] • 0 pt

Tutorials that soon prove to you (most people) that MATH IS HARD. and NIGGERS can't DO it worth a SHIT.

[–] • 0 pt

...and if you are not interested in 'useless figurines' then check out the links in my other response. Thingivere has MILLIONS of open source models. You can print just about anything you can think of.

[–] • 0 pt

I'm interested (for instance) is a 3d cavity that produces (input of air/fuel) the PERFECT and SUPERIOR (To today's products) VORTEX of perfectly vaporized fuel and air to be introduced into a combustion chamber (JUST a random "idea" NOT a real one) for PERFECTLY efficient combustion. This "shape" would first be conceived of, then (usually) tweeked to quantify improvement/decay of the ideal shape your looking for.