Welcome • User Guide
ToS • Privacy • Canary
Donate • Bugs • License

©2025 Poal.co

687

@NoisySilence This one is for you...

This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments:

1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought

2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed.

3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me.

4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces.

5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit.

6) Experiment with ironing.

7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

@NoisySilence This one is for you... This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments: 1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought 2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed. 3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me. 4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces. 5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit. 6) Experiment with ironing. 7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

(post is archived)

You are currently inside a comment thread.
Click here to see all the comments (21).
[–] • 0 pt

...and if you are not interested in 'useless figurines' then check out the links in my other response. Thingivere has MILLIONS of open source models. You can print just about anything you can think of.

[–] • 0 pt

I'm interested (for instance) is a 3d cavity that produces (input of air/fuel) the PERFECT and SUPERIOR (To today's products) VORTEX of perfectly vaporized fuel and air to be introduced into a combustion chamber (JUST a random "idea" NOT a real one) for PERFECTLY efficient combustion. This "shape" would first be conceived of, then (usually) tweeked to quantify improvement/decay of the ideal shape your looking for.

[–] • 0 pt

So I really do encourage you to not be daunted by the learning process... a lot of this is much more approachable than you may realize.

The project you describe would require quite a few skill sets... but the hard things to learn would not be the CAD design or the 3D printing... it would be the fluid and gas dynamics, combustion ratios, etc.

[–] • 0 pt

I went to grad school on full scholarship (computer science). I have 3 patents. How I KNOW what is being sold is a long con.

I know about the complexities, I'm talking about the prototyping. I was just framing the (hypothetic, first thing that popped into my head (for free)) example into a context of reality (practical).

Is Buddha really FOR you (asian)? or are you putting on airs here?