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@NoisySilence This one is for you...

This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments:

1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought

2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed.

3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me.

4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces.

5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit.

6) Experiment with ironing.

7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

@NoisySilence This one is for you... This is the video that got me into doing super high quality prints on my FDM printers. The video goes into this way better than I will be able to but there are a few comments: 1) Seriously, give it a try... your printer can probably do much higher quality than you ever thought 2) Slow WAY down... the "Top layers = 9999" hack he talks about is really doing nothing except halving the print speed for all the layers. Slow down to like 25mm/s and this is not really needed. 3) Find the 'magic numbers' for your stepper motors through experimentation. In theory 0.04 layer height should have been optimal for me but 0.05 is what actually works for me. 4) Run a bunch of heat column tests. Every filament, brand to brand and even spool to spool needs different temps for really smooth surfaces. 5) ...and stringing tests. "z hop on nozzle moves" is your friend. Stringing causes surface warts and surface warts look like shit. 6) Experiment with ironing. 7) If you are using PrusaSlicer or Slic3r... Don't. Go download Cura. I know the UI is less intuitive but it really can do everything Slicer can and do it all better... The gcode rendering is better. Trust me on this one.

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[–] • 0 pt (edited )

So you are talking about the difference between 3D modeling and 3D printing.

3D modeling is the process of creating a 3D model. 3D printing then renders that model in to a physical object.

For 3D modeling you should check out Blender, OpenCAD and TinkerCAD. All three are open source and have excellent tutorials out there.

A while back I had a camping canopy break and I designed the replacement part myself... took about 2 evenings of watching tutorials to get up to speed but it is not that hard. Saved a $200 canopy for about $0.12 and two evenings of learning... and now I have a very useful skill set.

[–] • 0 pt

Tutorials that soon prove to you (most people) that MATH IS HARD. and NIGGERS can't DO it worth a SHIT.

[–] • 0 pt (edited )

Tutorials that you have clearly never watched. There is not really any 'MATH'

Do not sell yourself short. You do not need to be a rocket scientist to get into this. If you are really interested go try TinkerCAD. It is browser based with nothing to install and designed for the beginner ... it is limited and if you get serious you will outgrow it but to this day I do 90% of my design work in it because the interface is very easy.

[–] • 0 pt

okay I'll go take a look. I was going on my EXPERIENCE with REALITY. But if I am WASTING my time. Buddha will prove an inadequate ally, torch or not. You cannot con God.