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It was cheap, I needed parts and will need even more in the future so I went for it. I've got it leveled pretty well and it handles a basic bridge test just fine. Currently printing out the Bullseye air duct and then the mount.

Outside of printing printer upgrades, what's some cool, fun, useful things to print? What have you printed that you got the most use or laughs from?

I need to sit down and learn freecad so I can start making custom stuff. That'll take time and practice. Until then, pre-generated stls for me.

It was cheap, I needed parts and will need even more in the future so I went for it. I've got it leveled pretty well and it handles a basic bridge test just fine. Currently printing out the Bullseye air duct and then the mount. Outside of printing printer upgrades, what's some cool, fun, useful things to print? What have you printed that you got the most use or laughs from? I need to sit down and learn freecad so I can start making custom stuff. That'll take time and practice. Until then, pre-generated stls for me.

(post is archived)

[–] 1 pt

One of the reasons why the Ender3 is so cheap is because there are things that it should really come with but it does not... luckily you can print what you need.

  1. Print some filament guides
  2. Print some of the noise dampening feet. Seriosly, it cuts the noise by about 50%
  3. Check the angle of your z axis screw. If you see any binding, elephant foot, or prints that are a little shorter than they should be, print out the Z axis stepper motor mount shims
  4. print out a knob for the extruder stepper. I never actually use it as a knob, but being able to see visually the behavior of your extruder is key for diagnosing many issues.
  5. Consider upgrading your bed leveling springs to the stiffer yellow ones. I went from having to bedlevel every day to having to bed level every week or two.

Are you well versed with cad? I'm not a slouch when it comes to learning new software and I've dipped by toes into blender but when it comes to cad, I'm a complete newb and will be starting from scratch with freecad. Unless there's a better solution out there. I've seen tinker but I like my data and really don't want to hand over my personal usage and work to autodesk.

[–] 1 pt

Freecad is a bitch to learn... it has many quirks. But once you get over the learning curve it is very capable. TInkercad is super easy to learn, but yeah... autodesk owns you. You can export your designs in several formats though. Tinkercad is great for getting going.

Good call on the springs. I'll pick some up. I'm already planning the other upgrades, have a top filament guide already but need to do the one by the z screw. I also need to pull out some calipers and check the z screw measurements to make sure its good. So far there's no signs of binding.

[–] 1 pt

Mine did not start z axis binding until about 1000 print hours. Watch for it. E3Pros are notorious for it.

[–] 1 pt

Careful with the bullseye fan duct. I found that it was problematic.

In a stock E3Pro the hot end fan ducts out the bottom of the hot end housing and thereby acts like a supplemental part cooling fan. When I experimented with hot end fan ducts my hot end cooling was dramatically improved (only really an issue with higher temp materials) but my part cooling went to shit. I think the hot end fan ducts are only viable if you are also going to replace/upgrade the part cooling fan.

I think one of the first things I'll try, if I have part cooling issues, is taking a small file and put small reliefs in the far ends of each duct to allow a short and small path for a bit more air to flow down on the part.

Thanks for the tip on the bullseye. It seems easy enough to return to stock if I come across any issues. Really, it prints pretty well out of the box with pla but I'll be experimenting with abs a bit. It's all new to me so all the info is much welcome. Thank you.

[–] 1 pt

Here's an idea... (recoilweb.com)

I can neither confirm nor deny that it may or may not have already crossed my mind. I hate glocks.

[–] 2 pts

I hate glocks.

models for S&W M&P are also easily found

[–] 1 pt

Printing this requires a number of upgrades for high temp printing. Printing this in PLA or PETG is useless. Needs to be printed in Nylon, ideally a glass fiber infused nylon.

You need: 1. All metal hot end 2. Glass or PEI bed (I like PEI much more and it is a drop in upgrade) 3. And you may have to flash your firmware to get the proper bed temps

All good to know. I picked up a glass bed already but won't be pulling the trigger on doing any other upgrades to print it anytime soon. I've got a few other things to tackle first.

[–] 1 pt

I hate glocks.

Me too. That's why I only have five of them,

I don't mind glocks. They're good but I like all metal.

Dummy rounds for practice, pegboard game (Cracker Barrel), 3D printed gun (in Minecraft, just kidding!), there's tons of odds and ends.

It's one of those things that you just need to get into the mind of using rather than trying to force using it. All sorts of useful things you can print. HDD trays, etc. Missing plastic parts.

There's plenty that I want to do but I need to get my butt in gear to learn how to design it. Right along I'm learning the quirks of the machine that I bought and ways to deal with them.

I'll give a puzzle of some kind a print. I saw one that looked like it would be a good exercise in swapping filament colors on the same print. I could also always use or give away some snap caps.